Corona Run: Ribville

Friday May 1, 2020
Day 5.

I woke up early and refreshed thanks to another high thread count night in a Hampton Inn and another pretty good dinner with no contact delivery direct to my room.

The last two days had been somewhat big with each being over 600 miles. If you don’t fiddle-faddle around at gas stops you can cover quite a bit of ground while still avoiding interstates. This is especially true in the plains and works in the mountains when big distances can be saved by going over instead of around.

Today’s destination is a farm in Centerville, Tennessee owned by another High Quality Human. On top of fantastic weather, empty roads, cheap gas and hotels the unexpected icing on this cake were the visits I was able to have. We kept it simple, remained out doors and wagged elbows instead of the customary hugs, shakes and hi-fives. Usually when I visit Ribville it’s to help set up and participate in a rally, this time it was to be just a few of us and I was looking forward to it.

Poplar Bluff and Centerville are relatively close so I spent some time in the evening planning out a fun route. I decided to get as far off the beaten path as possible which resulted in a small ferry crossing.



This is essentially a barge with an articulating tug. If you look closely you’ll see the structure at the bow of the tug. The tug pivots around the pin. (video below)


When I arrived at the landing there was a very nice couple waiting for the ferry. They informed me they arrived just at the boat was leaving and it didn’t turn around for them. We spent almost an hour waiting for it to arrive. We loaded up, left the dock and I shot the video to follow on the rotation of the tug. Just as this was completed three motorcycles showed up to the landing. The captain backed the barge in enough for them to get on and off we went. I’m sure none of this was lost on the guy with the Florida plates. I let the Captain off the hook after he yelled at one of the riders to “get up here” i.e. join the Captain on the bridge.

I love looking at bikes like this and I have total respect for the rider that can keep it looking this good.


Below is the video of the tug switching sides.

Changing direction

One we got settled in the trip across the river was quick as we were going downstream. There was a fair bit of barge traffic on the river and they have the right of way.

Once off the boat I made good time toward Centerville. I was hungry and was absolutely delighted to find a Yoders open for business and serving made to order sandwiches. They had signs on the door instructing all that enter are to sanitize their hands and they had a table just inside for this purpose.

Yoder’s Country Store, doing it right.

From Yoder’s I had a lovely ride to Ribville. Before I could set up my tent I decided a nap was in order.

After a nap I got my tent set up and wandered down for some dinner, drinks and a good time with a few friends. As an added bonus my buddy Jim Bean came down from Nashville. The AGALOS influence was strong on this ride.

Poplar Bluff, Missouri to Centerville, Tennessee 234 Miles in 7:52. A most relaxing day.

Next: Carolina off my mind

Corona Run: Skunkwerks

Thursday, April 30. Fourth day of travel

I’m up early. I’m still in the plains and I have some miles to go before I get to the mountains. My goal for the day is to get east and stop for a visit with Brad Calbert of Skunkwerks Moto.

Brad is one of the most fascinating men I would like to know better. At first blush between the coveralls, the mid-west modesty and the dirty hands it’s easy to miss the intelligence, history and achievements contained within. After a career in technology including robotics and fabrication Brad and his partner John decided that work should be fun so they opened an independent motorcycle and fabrication shop. They must have really hated their previous gig.

I was looking forward to a visit, not just to see their new shop but to sit with Brad and discuss the world as it is today.

Being flat and boring the ride to Skunkwerks was quick and uneventful with nothing to see that I felt was worthy of a photo. I arrived at Skunkwerks, got a quick tour and then sat down for the chat that never happened.

When I ran the store for Max I learned early on that there would be days when we would serve as the diversion of the day to an older rider, if they still rode at all. Nice folks, they would come in to kick tires and chat with absolutely no plan on doing anything that would lead to an improvement on my or the shop’s bottom line. Most of the time it’s also a pleasant diversion except for those times when there’s much to be done which is pretty much all the time in a motorcycle shop except the fourth Wednesday in Febuary.

Sure enough about 30 seconds after Brad and I sat for a visit in comes Mr. “I’ve got all the time in the world” with his 20 year old BMW he bought used a few months ago that now has a slipping clutch after 1,000 miles. He has no plans to fix it even after Brad offers to do the job at 50% less than a BMW dealer would charge but he’s happy to go on for close to 20 minutes while Brad and I nod politely while telling Brad to “be on the lookout for something cheap.” I guess he hopes he can pass that K bike off on someone else who will miss a slipping clutch on a test ride.

Unfortunately for me Brad had a shop to run and I had to keep moving so rather than exchange ideas with someone I was eager to do this with I got to hear the trails and tribulations of an old K bike rider.

When I would get gas, order food, etc I’d start with a mask or leave my helmet on with chinbar down. It doesn’t protect me but it prevents spread. The approach to masks was very different from state to state. I never got a chance to discuss this with my host. In retrospect it’s probably a good thing Mr. KRS couldn’t see my exasperations.


Brad had suggested I check out great road on my way out of town. It was a bit of a detour but provided a wonderful if brief sample of the Mark Twain National Forest.

I finished up the day with a direct route to Poplar Bluff and another Hampton Inn. The memorable feature of Thursday night in Poplar Bluff was an excellent dinner delivered from the local Italian place. Tip in advance did not result in utensils. Like every other Hampton the breakfast bar and coffee service was closed. This meant I had to ask the person at the desk, etc. I am now adding a spork to my permanent tankbag kit. I had some good dinners that would have been much better with a solid fork.

The memorable feature of the day were some of the lines I saw in the small towns I passed through. They look longer than they are because everyone is practicing distancing but they all lead to the local government office, Salvation Army or other relief organization. I had avoided the news but that morning I looked and saw 33,000,000 Americans unemployed. That’s equal to the Great Depression of 1933 however we have four or five times the population if that’s any consolation. On a percentage basis unemployment passed 14% which I believe is the highest since it has been tracked. Ride through any small town and you can buy flowers at Walmart while the lady that owns the closed flower shop, her employee and her landlord are standing in line.

Not everyday on a big ride is going to be the best ever and this was such a day. Still a million times better than work and worthy of thanks at bedtime along with a prayer for our economic and physical health.

Woodward, Oklahoma to Poplar Bluff, Missouri
644 miles in 14:42


Next: Ribville







Corona Run: Cool Colorado

Wednesday morning. Day three from Los Angeles; I was up before dawn. One of the things I enjoy most about Colorado are the cool crisp nights followed by wonderfully comfortable days. If it’s too hot head to the mountains or find a stream for a refreshing dip.

This also means one can decide to put up with a bit of a chill over the first few hours of riding or layer up and plan on stopping. I decided to take a middle path which worked out well but did result in a bit of a chill for the first hour or so.

This was to be the day when the shutdown and its effect would become very clear. So far I had been on roads that would have been relatively traffic free in the best of times; now I was in Colorado which suffers from a lot of seasonal traffic. My plan for the day was to ride from Dolores to Taos, New Mexico and then east into Oklahoma. My wife and I camped in Angle Fire, New Mexico last summer before the GS Giants rally in Doloes so I knew the ride would be pretty good, plus I would be traversing Pagosa Springs. Pagosa Springs is home to a very nice resort and some hot springs; we stayed a night there last summer.

I left Big John’s and took 184 east to Mancos then 160 into Durango. Normally 160 would be frustrating. It’s a major route and usually has RV’s and sightseers who struggle to maintain the speed limit, especially on the grades.

On this day it was all mine. It felt like someone closed the state just for me; from Mancos to Durango I saw no other traffic. Entering Durango I had to check my speed as there was no natural resistance to make the 25mph zone anything but a speedway. This was to be my experience to Pagosa Springs as well.

I wanted to visit Pagosa Springs because from our previous visit I knew that tourism is the major if not the only economic engine. It’s a beautiful town with the springs front and center with a nice main street with shops, restaurants and real estate offices. It was very close to a ghost town with the only activity being maintenance on the springs which were all closed.

Downtown Pagosa Springs, Colorado Wednesday morning May 1, 2020

Pagosa Hot Springs Wednesday morning May 1, 2020

Pagosa Springs, Colorado Wednesday morning May 1, 2020
Looking west

After Pagosa Springs I continued east to Taos, New Mexico. This is a great ride, very fast and desolate any time of year. It was a beautiful day to be on a bike and I enjoyed myself immensely. I crossed the Rio Grande and noticed the visitors center was closed, the lot was open and there was one vendor selling crap out of a van; usually there are a half dozen or more.

In Taos I stopped at a local burger joint. It was open to come in and order, then one waits outside for food. There were a few outdoor tables which were not closed off. The bathrooms were closed. This became what I considered a “good” stop, I was able to get fresh food and a seat to eat. The lack of bathroom was an inconvenience that would be repeated often.

After lunch I departed Taos and took some of the Enchanted Loop east to Angle Fire. Angle Fire is where we camped last summer. Little did we know that late July in New Mexico is the rainy season but after six days of rain on a seven day visit we do now. May is not the rainy season and it was an absolutely fantastic day.

I continued east and dropped into the great plains to take 412 across Oklahoma. 412 is a fantastic two lane road that offers the opportunity to make great time without a lot of interference. It’s a road I’ve never used as it’s too far south and too hot for use in the summer but it was fantastic for the first week of May. It’s a great place to get lonely.

GPS shows my next turn is a rotary. In 121 miles.

Oklahoma is an energy producing state

I was making fantastic time. I was treating this like a transit; I had enjoyed the twists and turns of Colorado and I was anticipating some twists and turns in the Ozarks. Now it was time to beat feat east and 421 was happy to oblige. I started to think about where I might spend the night and I was delighted to discover there was a Hampton Inn up the road in Woodward, Oklahoma

My GPS agreed that Woodward, Oklahoma would be a perfect destination for my ride across the greatest country on earth.



Woodward is a city in and the county seat of Woodward County, Oklahoma. It is the largest city in a nine-county area with a population of approximately 12,000. It is home to the Plains, Indians and Pioneers Museum which was closed. I arrived somewhat late and broke into my emergency rations of beef jerky and granola for dinner.

Dolores, Colorado to Woodward, Oklahoma. 645 miles in 11:04

Next: Skunkwerks

Corona Run: Bananas Foster

Tuesday April 28, 2020
Day Two

The previous day had been hot. I didn’t get the big sleep I had hoped for and I woke up feeling a bit off which in the age of Corona leads one to run though the catalog of symptoms which are broad enough to make confusion reign. Nothing breeds anxiety like confusion.

I had decided to take my time. I figured my malaise was the combination of stress, not enough food, hydration and sleep and an easy morning would be a good way to confirm this. I also had plans to visit a friend which if I felt anything less than 100% I was going to cancel.

Big John lives in Dolores, Colorado. He’s a Veteran who served with honor, expert marksman, has a vineyard that produces some nice wines, fosters dogs, hosts a great program on the local public radio station and makes a wicked good pie. I’m proud to know such a man and consider myself very lucky to have an open invitation.

Back in my room I checked in on the weather. The other day I had considered repeating my ride last fall which would take me into Big Bend and south Texas but a chat with Big John changed that. Looking at the weather lady’s graphic I was very happy with my choice of a “southern central route.” across the west.

Record heat. Normally when I go west it’s record rain.

I enjoyed a leisurely departure and set off for Dolores. This was not going to be the most exciting day of riding but I had a great destination and it was another day of no interstates.

I was feeling better. I had a morning snack and made sure I was drinking plenty of water and my temperature was fine.

Without planning it I wound up riding by the Four Corners Monument. I was pretty sure it was going to be closed but it was on my route so I was going to see for myself. I pulled in and there was one other vehicle there, a white car with Connecticut plates! Holy cow! I have Connecticut plates too!

He finished up his phone call and came out to chat. My first encounter with a talker and it seemed natural that our “personal space” was now about a 10′ radius. He was on his way from Connecticut to Long Beach, California to start a new career and I was on my way from LA to my home in Connecticut! By random chance we both decided to visit the same remote spot at the same time and were the only people there.



Freaky.

As I departed I was absolutely 100% delighted with the encounter. When out on a big ride seemingly random, freaky events can take place. Sometimes they’re great and other times not so much but events like this happen all the time when you go exploring.

This one was pretty wild, completely positive and gave me my first clue that this was going to be a fantastic ride and I haven’t even sat with Big John yet!

We had discussed plans for my visit in advance. My accommodations were to be their 24′ travel trailer, upon arrival I would go straight there. Big John and his wife Debbie came down in their gator to say hello and we made plans for dinner outdoors. John had a mp3 player going in the trailer; imagine having the DJ’s personal collection on shuffle. I kept on taking photos of the screen to capture the name of the band I was hearing for the first time. I love music and this was an unexpected treat; I’ve “discovered” more new to me bands in the last year of Big John’s radio show than any other time I can remember.

My visit was on too short notice for pie so Big John threw together some Bananas Foster.

After a wonderful evening with Big John, Debbie and the dogs I retired to the trailer and got a wonderful night’s sleep.

Flagstaff to Dolores. 326 miles in 6:34. A relaxed day.

Next: Cool Colorado

Corona Run. Eastbound

Monday, April 30, 2020.

After a fantastic evening with Lu, his wife Geri and the Wizard it was time for me to do what I came west to do. I have to admit I was very apprehensive about the ride, what would I encounter and is it even legitimate for me to be doing this.

For close to the last 90 days it’s been all virus all the time. When I was a kid we did the duck and cover under our desks, thinking it would somehow help should the evil Russians hurl some nukes our way. I’ve seen protests, natural disasters, the discovery of HIV and AIDS, SARS, lost family friends on 911 and an economic crisis but this is my first experience with a National Emergency and states of emergency in every state, with some Governors declaring it’s illegal to go next door and chat with your neighbor. On top of the media hysteria, the endless “we’re all going to die” loop and Facebook I was starting to lose my mind as every metric that measures success, happiness and financial security in the United States got inverted by executive order while some folks cheered the increasing impact of the virus as political opportunity.

Shutting all that shit off for 13 days was the best thing I’ve done in a long time.

I had no idea what this would all mean on the road and I had been watching the news to get a feel for when it might be ok for me to sneak out for my motorcycle. In the last week of April many executive orders were set to expire soon, some Governors were talking about how to reopen their states which gave me some confidence that the time was right. I didn’t want to be on the roads the week communities “reopened” as I figured that roads, shopping and all that could be a bit chaotic as folks that had been in self quarantine for two months raced for that first spot at the salon or gym.

I also had no plan.

I never do not have a plan because I learned at a young age you can’t leave the dock without a plan. Just like you can’t fly a plane without a plan to land I have never started a ride with no plan.

I suppose I did have a plan or at least a destination. I was heading east with a few goals. First I wanted to avoid the interstate as much as possible, visit small towns and see what’s really going on. I learned years ago that if you really want to know the true story about what the talking heads are spinning there’s nothing like a personal inspection from the seat of a motorcycle. In 2016 I did a big ride through the west on a rally that featured boom-towns that had gone bust. Based on what I saw and who I spoke with I came home and told my friends in New England who the next President would be and I was right. They didn’t believe me. Last fall when I rode west I went as close to the US – Mexico border as possible and spoke with locals, border patrol officers and one kind trooper from New Mexico. For this ride I wanted to see first hand how Americans are dealing with the Virus and you can’t see anything from the interstates.

I figured I’d look at weather, terrain and desired destinations before bed to get a feel for the next days ride. I also had to factor in accommodations and food. I was carrying camping gear but I was aware that most legal camping spots were likely to be closed which was what I encountered. I decided I’d try to end each day in town just big enough to have a Hampton Inn but not so big as to have a lot of people. I have been intermittent fasting as part of a diet so I wasn’t worried about breakfast. Lunch turned out to be a Subway sandwich or grinder from a pizza parlor; it was that or fast food.

Leaving Lu’s I punched in Quartzsite, Arizona as my destination. Quartzsite is the place in North America were the folks that live full time in their RV’s know they’ll be warm in January, February and March. The trade off is by early April it’s hot, by June it’s just about inhabitable. I had heard you could just go out into the desert and camp; this I wanted to see.

It was warm and forecast to be a hot day. While my goal was to avoid interstate to get out of Southern California it is close to the only option. I found the highway to be empty with the few folks in fast cars happy to clear a near triple digit path east. Quartzsite came up fast.

Quartzsite was hot, bland and most of the businesses were closed for the summer. The RV spots with hook-ups were all full and there were some folks out in the desert. I would imagine these are the people whose regular summer plans have been trashed by the shutdowns.

From Quartzsite I rode Northeast to Prescott, Sedona and on to Flagstaff.
Prescott and Sedona are what I’d consider upscale towns and given their location and time of year much of the focus would be outdoors. Both towns were close to deserted, Sedona was particularly striking as there was nothing along the ride though town that was essential enough to be open.

I had been looking at time and at Quartzsite I decided Flagstaff would be a good place for the night. I found a Hampton Inn on the GPS and made it my destination. I like Hampton Inn’s when I travel but generally they are a bit on the expensive side. I like them because they usually let me park my bike under cover and near the door, the rooms are comfortable and good for sleeping.

The Hampton I selected did not disappoint. I put on my mask and entered the lobby to find they had used some folding tables to enforce physical distancing at the counter. The desk attendant was polite and happy to to have a guest. On the table were menus from local restaurants that were offering free delivery.

The setup at the Hampton Inn. After this I selected Hampton Inn every night I could.


I got a room with a nice view of the mountains, ordered a steak and got a good nights sleep.



Lu’s place to Flagstaff. 510 miles in 9:24


Next: Bananas Foster

California Style

The first time I rode a motorcycle in California was on the Iron Butt Rally. I dropped into the northern part of the state, through the redwoods and out to the coast. On another rally the theme involved light houses and I started at the Oregon coast and collected points all the way to a life guard chair in San Diego. In between a buddy from the east relocated to San Rafael; I’d been out there to ride with him a few times and always loved it.

Thanks to my friend Rick I’ve had the opportunity to get to know Southern California in the same way my friend Dave introduced me to the northern part of the state. As a good Yankee I have a love / hate relationship with California. As a motorcyclist if I’m going to be honest with myself it’s all envy; except when we stop for gas.

There is nowhere else in the country with the variety of terrain, climate and roads as California and it is all compressed when you get to the Los Angeles area. As a benefit LA came after the automobile and the car culture that was born here is alive and well. In the span of a day you can ride twisty roads from sea level to over 4,000′, see snow capped peaks, farms and vineyards before turning around to drop down to the beach.

When I reached out to Rick I asked about the condition of my tires. I knew they were suspect as I had planned to switch them to a more dirt orientated tire for the riding we were expecting to do. The virus changed all that and now I needed tires that would be good for a coast to coast ride. Rick informed me the rear was good for 500 miles and the front would “probably” make it. I’ve never left on a big ride on a probable tire. Rick was willing to take my bike to his dealer for a set of tires which proved to be vital.

Upon landing in LA I was met by Rick and off we went to an In and Out Burger for lunch. This was my first visit to fast food, at home we stocked the pantry early. Here it was a zoo with restaurant staff taking orders outside on panasonic toughpads which are very expensive military spec tablets. A cool toy when they could have smashed three ipads for each one of those mil spec units. It took us about 40 minutes to get lunch and the drive up to Ventura took almost twice as long as normal. The beaches were closed but there were a lot of people taking a look from the relative safety of their cars

When we arrived at Rick’s place I was delighted to be reunited with my motorcycle and my gear. It was a beautiful day and it was easy to talk Rick into a quick ride into the hills to scrub in my new tires. It was very wise of Rick to take my bike in on Friday; by the time we got to his garage it was too late to get tires. Rick had a small club ride planned for Sunday and he invited me to stick around.

I’m generally not one for group rides yet here I was riding some very technical roads with some very good riders who are also local. It was quite enjoyable to a point when the extra focus and concentration necessary to ride with such a group overcame my desire to do it. I gave Rick a wave and set off on my own. We had a planned rendezvous with our friend Lu for dinner.

I had a ball. On my own I was able to enjoy my own pace, get over any jet lag and see some of the best of the area.

Up in the hills all sorts of things can jump out. Here I came around a turn and there were two guys setting up to do a tandem flight on this hang-glider. I waited and waited, took a whole bunch of video but at the end of the day they decided it wasn’t quite right. Probably a good decision because jumping off a mountain on a hang-glider strapped to another person is something that would likely punish indecision.

I continued on to Lu’s place for a dinner of wicked thick pork chops, fine wine and a most excellent cigar. Lu has a nice place. I’m very lucky to be welcome there although someday the guys at the gate are going to get wise and not let me in.

All in all a fantastic weekend in Southern California.

Weekend fun. Blue route is the Saturday afternoon scrub in, Magenta was all day Sunday.

Next: Eastbound

The Corona Run

Over the last two years I have been incredibly fortunate to have a winter spot in Ventura, California for my motorcycle in Gandalf’s garage. Who is this Gandalf? He is the wizard of the west and knows the roads like no other. He’s also a Civil Engineer in the most geologically challenging place in North America so it’s safe to say he’s a cut above the rest.

He leaves much of the discipline of his profession at the office and has become the de-factor leader and world headquarters of AGALOS which is a name given to our riding group. AGALOS stands for Ain’t Got a Lick O Sense which is how we were described by a rider on one of our tours.

As a proper Wizard, Gandalf knows all the best roads, best places and the best people too. Over the last few years we’ve been taking advantage of this with a weekend in Paso Robles and last year a trip to Baja. This year plans included another weekend in Paso Robles, a trip to Baja and the California Back Road Discovery route.

Then along came a virus.

When we got together in early February the writing was on the wall. This was the weekend that Wall Street decided to take the virus seriously; the following week started the run on toilet paper.

The plane tickets for the BDR ride got cancelled, then rescheduled before cancelling once more. Delta was great about issuing a full credit and my original economy ticket became a first class ride.

With our plans scrapped my issue became how to get my bike home. Shipping is an option from Las Vegas. Flying to LA, riding to Vegas and flying home felt to carry more risk than riding the back roads across the country. With encouragement from my wife I reached out to Gandalf on Friday, April 24.



As you can see I waited until 8:24 which was 05:24 at AGALOS HQ. I chalk it up to Wizards never sleep, my wife considers it fair play after all the 02:00 drunken shout-outs we’ve received.

I booked my ticket. I had a choice of two itineraries both of which went though Delta’s hub in Atlanta. One trip had a shorter duration with less time in Atlanta. First class in this flight was pretty full. The alternative was a longer trip but this one only had three passengers booked in first class and very few overall so this was my choice.

24 hours after booking my ticket I was on my way. I was the only person going through security at 06:30 and was also one of a handful of passengers for the entire plane.

The astute observer might have noticed the shiner. The previous Monday evening I had an incident playing Platform Tennis which resulted in a trip to the Emergency Room for three stitches.

I went to a smaller hospital and found on that Monday I was their only patient. They had yet to have any Covid-19 cases. The ER staff were fantastic and started off with a temp screen and a check of my lungs before taking care of a cut.

I spent close to two hours on the ground in Atlanta. Considering it was a hub it was deserted. Three of us took the middle and each end of a bar for much longer than anyone would have been able. I decided that for the first time in close to 35 years that a beer with breakfast would be a good idea. As an aside the entire trip had an underlying layer of stress involved and a beer with a tater tots seemed like a fine idea.

The flight status monitors at Delta’s Hub. All the flights for the day.


Back on the plane I’m sure I was quite a sight. What was an empty flight from Atlanta to LA yesterday was announced as a full flight today. Everyone was wearing a mask and some took more precautions than others.

In flight meal.

I survived the flight. After take-off and the distribution of the snack bags the flight attendants were scarce and with everyone wearing masks conversation was non-existent.

Flying into Los Angeles was interesting. We were reminded that masks were required in the airport. It was a beautiful day and it was a bit jarring to look down at somewhat empty freeways and sub-divisions with little movement.

405 in Los Angles, California 13:20 Saturday.


.Next: California Style

Berkshire Big Adventure Part Three

With Drew heading home on the “quicker picker upper” I headed back to the camp. I was looking forward to the post ride happy hour, dinner, bench racing around the campfire and most especially the arrival of my wife, The Lovely Chace who was riding over on her GS.

Due to my extracurricular activities with the Sprinter Chace was on-site when I returned. We had a wonderful evening. Wade Jarvis and the Colebrook Fire Department served up a fantastic dinner, we enjoyed adult beverages and we burned shit.


Photo by Rob Schobert

My plan from the get-go was to ride big bike hard with my buddies on Saturday and tone it down for a day in the woods with Chace. She’s a hell of a touring rider with over 100,000 miles blasting around North America on the big BMW but big bike hard isn’t her cup of tea. I was looking forward to having her join us for the evening’s festivities and for a ride Sunday; with the Honda in the box we had the option of working a bit on the intermediate route or going romantic and scenic on the Explorer route with the big bikes. A consideration to keep in mind was the Trail Boss promised Sunday would be a step up from Saturday so we decided to go for romance.

The Explorer route turned out to be a really wonderful ride. We’ve become hooked on our Sena’s and we enjoy chatting on these rides and we found plenty to discuss. The ride started with great paved twisties with farms and incredible views. We noted on what a great ride it was and that this is a part of New England we don’t get to that often.

We did find some nice dirt on the way, with the dirt leading to some mud. With Chace on the 1200 GS with street tires and luggage I decided this could quickly end up as us being in the wrong place at the wrong time so we turned around. When we did so we encountered another couple; he was on a 1200GS and she was riding the new 310GS fitted with knobbie tires. They were not going to be turning around.

It can be quite a challenge finding the “right” adventure bike that’s not a heavy monster. The smaller the bike the less comfortable it will be for long days and it will have less capacity for luggage, fuel and gear for an extended dual sport tour. On paper a bike like the new BMW 310GS looks like it could fit the bill until one gets to the suspension along with the understanding that BMW didn’t intend for this model to be a dirty girl, its place is more as a light weight urban adventure bike (BMW’s own description). The little Honda is wonderful in the woods but if your normal ride is a GS after a half day of on an off road riding it becomes a little on the painful side and you can forget about loading it up for a big tour, although I did recently spend some time on the Mid Atlantic Back Road Discovery Route with a guy who was doing on a Yamaha 250 so it can be done, although this rider was traveling with friends on big bikes who carried the cooking gear. If we ever find the perfect dual sport we’ll let you know. It will have KLR durability with KTM performance and light weight, while being capable of riding to Colorado and back. It will be called the unicorn. It might even be electric.

Re-route in place we continued on, having a wonderful ride. We saw the GS couple again along with some other happy riders.

One thing I keep in mind when doing these rides is not to become a slave to the GPS. I think it’s easy to start the day following a provided route and end in some sort of self defeating feedback loop about “finishing” the ride. I always look at GPX files as a suggested route, especially on pavement or in areas where there are plenty of choices. My exception to this are rides like the Back Road Discovery routes out west were a wrong turn can lead to serious consequences. Today we had no such concerns and decided before we left that lunch at the Bistro Box was in order.

For those of you that have never been, the Bistro Box is a fantastic roadside eatery in Great Barrington. Located on 7 south of town it’s always worth the visit and the wait.

We enjoyed our burgers and started back to camp. Given how close to home we were at one point we split off with Chace heading east while I returned to camp to get the gear after one of the best rides in a very long time.

Weekends like this don’t come all the time and they don’t happen without a lot of effort from a small but dedicated group of people. The other vital yet always underappreciated ingredient is the attitude of the people in this group. I’ve been to events were the folks in charge are aloof, too busy or miserable for one reason or another and it sets the tone for the weekend. In this case this group had done so much pre-event work (just look at those ,GPX files!) that when combined with their experience at hosting events it was impossible to find anyone that wasn’t smiling; even the folks busting their butts for our fun looked like they were enjoying themselves. It was that kind of weekend.

Solid Gold. Vince would be proud as would all the BTR members who came before of the ride and good times provided. Thank you.

I’d like to close this out with a huge tip of the keyboard to the following:

Dave Boiano: Trail Boss and BaseCamp professor.
Dave Seften (IT & Online Registration Guru, Pre-Rider and Mentor Extraordinaire to the Trail Boss.)
Chris Tooker and Chris Ballerini who laid out Sunday’s Intermediate Route.
Wade Jarvis, food (Colebrook Fire Department) and Pre-Rider.
Girl Scouts for Sunday Breakfast
Rich Mazzei, Check in
AkaRob Schobert, all around doer of what needed doing
Norbrook Farms Brewery
The members and officers of the Berkshire Trail Riders

And finally all the riders that came out to play. The crew above set it up and you all showed up to make it epic and to once again prove that if they build it, we will come.

Thanks to all for a Real Good Time.

#Fini














Berkshire Big Adventure Part Two

A few years ago I relocated to Suffield, Ct. Suffield is a beautiful town on the Ct River. Sharing a border with Massachusetts, Suffield is a farming town with tobacco as the key crop. My house is 35 miles from the host facility, yet I planned on bringing the Sprinter, Casita, three bikes and spending the weekend on site.

There were many appealing reasons to do this. The ride had been moved from a private (and primitive) back yard to a kids camp and the Saturday dinner was going to be on-site. In the pre-ride materials they mentioned camping and I felt this would be a good one to stay over for. I also wanted my wife to come over and while we’ve tent camped across the country a few times together, nothing says come on over like a memory foam mattress and private facilities in a water tight egg; I also had the Honda 250 in the van for her to enjoy on Sunday.

The site was advertised as opening at noon. Being close I planned on arriving shortly after, setting up and going for a ride, perhaps back to Suffield if necessary to work for a few hours. I arrived as it started to rain and was greeted by registration czar Dave Seften who directed me to a perfectly wonderful spot.

Any plans to go for a ride were put on hold as the rain increased. I decided to take a nap and fell asleep giggling at the rain. The BBA is never short on mud and deep water, after all it’s late May in the Berkshires however this spring has been particularly wet and we were being taunted with even more water the day before the ride.



Sometimes setting up a ride means taking one for the team. Registration Czar Dave Seften discovered how deep is too deep on this scouting run. D. Seften photo.

One of the many things that made this weekend so great was rides that started on the property as well as some loop trails. With 350 acres there were some great options. The Trail Boss had set up some arrowed routes that also showed how they were graded, i.e. Hero II, Hero III etc. This was announced in advance and gave everyone a great opportunity to get a feel for what to expect. The challenge loop also started on the property and as Dave said at the riders meeting if you get to pavement after starting here that’s the spot to figure out if you want to keep on the challenge route as it just gets harder. I did not know this Friday afternoon.

I got dressed and decided to explore. Down the hill in the back was a pond and over there in the woods was a chapel; I rode around both. While over by the chapel I saw what looked like a deer run with a single tire track. It was an easy choice, circle the chapel again or see what’s up there. Up there won and I was rewarded by finding some arrows which I followed.

I will admit to uttering “F me” a few times under my breath along with a good chuckle at the reminder that the BBA is no dealer day ride. I wasn’t at all prepared; I was way over dressed and sweating hard which guarantees my glasses will be fogged up so I couldn’t see so well either, yet it was great fun working the big bike over the wet and slimy rocks, roots and mud. I was happy to find the road and used it to find my way back to camp for typical Friday night fun. Big thanks to the BTR member at the grill for dinner.

Saturday morning came early; my alarm went off for the first time at 04:30. The two Daves had the equipment and a plan for producing coffee but they were a little thin on labor. Ironically I don’t drink coffee but I’ve been making it at rallies for almost 20 years so I offered to take care of it. The proper equipment was provided by the camp, however their big coffee pot is definitely a very high mileage unit. I’ll laugh off a complaint the brew is too strong but too weak is a cut to the gut and Saturdays batch was weak. Pendulum swing hard the other way Sunday, reports were you could almost chew it.

Let’s Ride Bikes!!

Saturday dawned as a picture perfect day for just about anything and I was very excited. My friend Drew was on his way over from New York. We rode the BBA together a few years ago and I was looking forward to doing it again. He arrived with his buddy Scott on a first year BMW 1100GS which means it’s just about 24 years old. We attended the riders meeting to get some critical information.


Trail Boss Dave Boiano providing key information at the riders meeting.
Photo by Rob Schobert


After the riders meeting we had a quick conversation and decided that we would do the intermediate route with all the hero sections. This looked to be as close to the “traditional” roll chart BBA of years past; the challenge looked like a ton of work on GSes and the Explorer route had too much pavement. Like Goldilocks I felt the middle choice would be just right.

The ride was absolutely fantastic. We loved a Hero section that had markers in the GPX file for an HIII hill, a wet rocky downhill and mud. How much mud must there be to be worthy of a waypoint? Join us next year and find out or ask the Registration Czar. As Drew and Scott rode out that morning they informed me they needed gas. Following the route files I saw marked gas off the trail which turned out to be the Blandford rest area off I-90 with a note to “go around the gate” to get gas. We fueled up and it was requested that we stop for coffee.

There is no way I will enter a truck stop for a rest on a ride like this, especially in the Berkshires where fancy food is in almost every town. We agreed to continue. A few minutes later I chuckled as I zoomed out the map and saw marked gas right on the route in another few miles; the truck stop visit was unnecessary but interesting. Especially for the eastbound tourists getting gas.

We continued on having a truly epic experience. Part of why I love this ride is it’s one of the very few rides where I know the HP2 will be put to the test. Most rides that are big bike friendly scale it to the BMW GS with the telever front end. It’s a fantastic system, amazing on the street and even though the total travel is generous for dirt, the actual travel of the shock and spring is much less which can become an issue in hard off road riding. KTM’s have big, beefy (and long) springs up front and a long piston in the back and I am pretty confident that 99% of the big bikes owned by Berkshire Trail Riders members are orange. <bias alert> The HP2 is the BMW that can go head to head with the big KTM’s and come out on top. < /bias alert>

We found Drew his coffee which turned into an early stop for lunch. Drew revealed he was running on fumes as he attended a Friday night game at Yankee Stadium, stayed in the city late, got a few hours sleep and then came out for the ride. I have no sympathy because I live in New England and every good New England boy knows the Yankees Suck.

After lunch we were out again just having a ball. We came up on a big group, probably almost a dozen riders. We got to an intersection and the advantage of knowing which way to go allowed me to pass; Drew and Scott filtered up to the front at the next stop sign and once again we were off.

As I popped out of the woods I discovered a large group of riders working their way across two sets of train tracks. The crossing was marked and probably active at one time but any improvements or lumber for a proper crossing had been removed and was in a pile next to the tracks. Given the primitive nature of the crossing I thought it must be an error so I rode down the east side a bit only to determine that the crossing was indeed on the route.

The group ahead was pretty casual and they were using lumber from the pile to made a bridge over the rails. I think they needed the lumber as some of their bikes didn’t have the clearance ours did or perhaps they didn’t have experience manhandling big bikes over obstacles. Regardless they all made it across.

The big group was leaving and I dismounted to work my HP2 across the tracks. I get off the tracks, put the bike on the stand and then hear the whistle. Drew and Scott heard the train while I was working my way across and held back.


The Great Northern, out of Cheyenne, from Sea to Shining Sea.

A post event conversation with the Trail Boss revealed there will be some internal discussions about how this ended up on the route. I will say that we got Drew’s GS Rally and Scott’s oil head over the tracks as a team and set a pace that would qualify us for the GS Trophy.

With the adventure of crossing the tracks behind us we continued on. Mud, rocks, hills and descents we were having a ball.

Right up until Drew’s bike broke.

It was a rock. More like a pebble. It came up, possibly from my tire and left a little telltale mark on Drew’s right crashbar as it traveled upward on a perfect trajectory for his throttle connector on the right grip; snapping it off and putting the bike into limp mode.

I suppose at some point I’ll be old and cranky enough to take this moment to launch a diatribe on fly by wire throttles, traction control and computers without which some modern bikes would be uncontrollable by us mere mortals. I’ll hold off because the alternative is the moto equivalent of groundhog day where we’re all stuck riding the same airhead and fiddling with carbs and crappy electrics for the rest of our days. I sure do find a bike like the HP2 to be the best of both worlds.

With Drew’s bike in limp mode (essentially fast idle with no throttle control) we started back to camp which according to my GPS was only 32 miles away. 32 miles. Might as well as been Mars as after 30 minutes we had covered not quite five miles. Basic math indicated that happy hour, dinner, date night and perhaps even the bonfire were in jeopardy at this pace so I found a spot for us to chat. We decided that Drew and Scott would stay in place, try to fix the connector and see if they could get the bike better while I tagged the location as a waypoint (Drew’s mechanical) and started back for the Sprinter. This proved to be a good plan. They were able to repair the connector but without a reset tool they could not clear the fault and the bike remained in limp mode.

Once in the Sprinter I head Drew making calls to coordinate the rescue of him and his bike. I pointed out I had an extra slot in the van and I live near a MAX BMW store which is where he goes for service. After a few random turns and circling the Big Y parking lot by I-90 we came up with a plan.

Remember Scott? He followed all our gyrations in the Sprinter. We stopped and Drew explained his plan.


Rob’s gonna take my bike and I’m going to ride home on this roll of paper towel.


End of part two

Part one

The Berkshire Big Adventure

The Berkshire Big Adventure is a two day ride in the Berkshires, aka the Berks. Hosted by the Berkshire Trail Riders; the BBA has a well earned reputation as a fantastic ride with plenty of challenges.

Unlike clubs that include street riding the Berkshire Trail Riders is essentially a club for riders who like to ride and compete exclusively off road; using pavement for transits to the next trail. Their mission is to advocate for responsible off-road motorcycling, competition and philanthropy.

They maintain the trails they ride and promotes their preservation through trail work parties several times a year, while working alongside various local, state and federal agencies.  Other than those on private lands, the trails are open to the public for other uses.  Clubs like this don’t accept virtual members; to join you must attend a meeting and commit to a minimum level of participation in trail maintenance, charitable giving, event help and on occasion riding the hell out of your dirt bike with like minded individuals. Clubs like this are full of great riders because of the commitment just to be a member means members are all in. When they describe a trail as Hero 4 you best have your big pants on.

Once a year they invite big bike goons like me to come play with them in one of the best dual sport regions of New England. I’ve answered the call more times than I can remember; which could be as few as five. Or six. But I think it might be as many as 8.

One of the things I love about the BBA is the navigation is old school. As in a paper roll chart. That’s the moto equivalent of being handed a sextant and being told to find Bermuda in a hurricane. To make it even more fun your “roll chart” was presented on 8.5×11 paper. They did provide a table, scissors and some tape; riders new to the concept were lucky if there was a grizzled old timer to tell them to run a line of tape all they way down the back of their roll lest it tear halfway through the ride. There was also a gentleman who sold the world’s best roll chart holder. It has a convex cover so it magnifies which for these old eyes is a blessing. It’s still mounted with a route sheet from a last time I rode the HP2 in the BBA. It says “SLOW PAST HOUSES LOOSE HORSES POSSIBLE”. I may never remove it.



New for this year was a .GPX file which was a work of art.

This year was also the first year for a new Trail Boss. The Trail Boss is responsible for everything regarding the ride and most of the stuff that happens at the start / finish too, which this year turned into a rally. Trail Boss Dave Boiano announced that the route would be provided as a .GPX file. No longer would I be playing rock, paper and scissors 45 minutes before the start. I was mildly disappointed if for no other reason that this ride is my only chance to ride a roll chart but when it comes to having a great ride it’s just impossible to beat a good GPS with a pre-loaded track file to follow. I could write volumes about the quality of the .GPX files and the obvious care, attention and countless hours of effort with a keyboard involved but I will keep it short. In addition to a track to follow they had coded hero sections of varying difficulty, warnings, gas stops, recommendations for food and things that were not on the route but great to know about. The gold standard for a .GPX file has been set by Mr. Boiano. It almost makes me want to learn Basecamp.


A thing of beauty. Can you find where my friend Drew’s bike broke?

My initial exposure to the BBA was via Adventure Rider. Advrider.com was the first social platform dedicated to adventure riding to gain traction; some might say it helped the segment take off. Back in the day conversation was very free-wheeling and participants (known as inmates) often became good friends who would get together for rides. Once such user was a rider named Vince who was highly entertaining, thoughtful and led a life many would envy. He was also a member of the Berkshire Trail Riders, and served as Trail Boss for multiple editions of this ride before succumbing to illness. He and his friends in the Trail Riders made me want to give this a go and I’ve had a ball with them many times since.

When I lived in Rhode Island I’d be up early, and ride about 140 miles to the start in Tolland. I’d have a nice ride and then an egg sandwich from the local Boy Scouts at the start, do the Adventure, and come home. Fast and light although sometimes the ride home requires a stop at a pharmacy.


If only the landing went as well as the launch.

Now I live about 40 minutes from the start, yet this year I brought the Sprinter, Casita and three motorcycles.

End part one Part Two