NyeMoto

THE INAUGURAL PAN AM TRAIL JAM

October 2, 2024

Tellico Overland Adventure Destination (T.O.A.D.)
September 27-29

I had the opportunity to attend the first edition of an adventure rally / weekend built for riders of Harley Davidson’s big V Twin for dirt, the Pan-American.

Hosted by Shawn Wells and his team from White Lightning Harley-Davidson in Chattanooga, the first TRAIL JAM attracted more than 30 riders from Orlando to Ontario.

It also attracted rain, as much if not more than any rally I can remember, thanks to Hurricane Helene which arrived as a sub-tropical depression. We were quite lucky, other than losing power the rally site was spared while communities not far to the east were devastated.

If you’re going to rally in the rain, T.O.A.D. is a great spot to set up base camp for a few days. Over the last few years site improvements have replaced rental tents with a pavilion on a concrete pad, a command center and new for this fall, the infamous shower bus is gone and has been replaced by a proper shower house.

Shawn was kind enough to bring me a demo PA to ride for the weekend. I was looking forward to the chance to really get to know the Pan America. I had taken a demo ride at Dirt Daze so I was not completely unfamiliar with the bike and I was looking forward to some riding.

It started raining on Wednesday evening and continued just about non-stop through Friday morning. With a promising forecast we decided to go for a ride after lunch.

I normally run fast and far from a large group ride but I was looking forward to some time on the PA with some of the folks I had met the day before. It was a big group but everyone could ride and we had a great start with our first destination being a scenic spot on a mountain top.

At our next stop after the mountain top my friend Chuck Lambert realized his GPS (Garmin Zumo XT) had some off the mount. We figured it had to be on the road to the photo site as it was somewhat choppy in spots. Chuck decided to go back for a look and I suggested four eyes were better than two and I went with him. We were unable to find the GPS, and Chuck’s loss turned into my gain as we realized we’d never catch the group so it was myself and a great guy, great rider and true local wizard with the trails off for a ride for two. I got to see some sights and bond with the bike.

There’s a water crossing upstream a bit we decided to take a pass on.

I was asked what I thought of the Pan America and I would have to qualify my answer with two undeniable facts. First I am a BMW guy as much as a Harley guy is a Harley guy. I love the boxer. Second, I am getting older and I look at my GS as a street bike I can ride on dirt roads and mellow jeep trails; If I want to go “big bike hard” I’m on a KTM 890. With this in mind there’s no way I’d find it practical to spend the money on a PA, but if this bike had come along 20 years ago there’s a good chance I would have come home to Harley.

With this said I do like the PA very much. We call them motorcycles because it’s all about the motor. I love twins and the big V-Twin, which in this bike is the Revolution MAX, pumps out 150hp and 95 ft-lbs of torque. It’s a beast and I love this motor. The bike it’s in is also very nice and for the Motor Company’s first go at a big Adventure Bike is a home run. My only gripes are the high center of gravity and the first generation electronics, stopping to engage “purple mode” ( hard core woods config) is so 2019 but will likely be addressed via a software update. The high center of gravity is the bleating of a rider who is much closer to racing in the “senior vet” group than against the target market for a bike like this..

After a great afternoon of riding Chuck and I returned to the rally site for happy hour and dinner. The Tellico Overland Adventure Destination is also the home of March Moto Madness, aka the mother rally. The Trail Jam was an opportunity to give the new shower house a good test which it passed with flying colors. The feedback from March Moto Madness mentioned the food service and quality of the food to be issues that had to be addressed; the Trail Jam was also an opportunity for a local caterer to demonstrate what they can do and can do they did. Both nights were fantastic dinners, some of the best I’ve ever had at a rally, plus for the first time there will be two food lines so the time in line will be cut in half.

Saturday morning arrived without rain which was a welcome relief from the last few days. The forecast was solid with mostly sunny skies with a few intermittent showers as the last of Hurricane Helene moved north.

Over the last few years the GS GIANTS have been improving the area behind the party barn and creating a fantastic big bike trials course and “proving grounds” where riders compete and attempt various tests of skill. The competition was fierce with a three way tie for first place that was broken with a slow race. I was very impressed with the top riders and I think it would be a great show to see GS and PA riders go head to head on this course.

Saturday night we enjoyed another fantastic meal, a band and big bonfire. It was a great way to cap off a wonderful weekend. Yes it rained a lot which kept riding down a bit but once in a while if you have the right people to hang out with a rally in the rain can be a heck of a good time. Plus as a first edition of what I am sure will be an ongoing success we all get to say “We were here for the first PAN AMERICAN TRAIL JAM and a Hurricane too!

Thanks again to Shawn Wells for the special invitation, the demo bike and for being an all around great guy and to Mick Fouts and Rebecca Johnson, owners of the Tellico Overland Adventure Destination and great hosts and all the riders who showed up to ride their PA’s in the muddy slop we call the woods.

I had a fantastic weekend.

Under Pressure

May 30, 2024

Nye Moto World Head Quarters. Chester, Vermont.

When I first visited what would become our spot in Vermont, it was love at first sight. Not for the single-wide, kit built “manufactured home,” the dilapidated barn, or the marijuana patch out back but for the sense of isolation, privacy and the kind of quiet that’s getting hard to find.

When you’re here it’s easy to imagine there are not another 20 million or so people within 500 miles. Unfortunately one of them is part of a family that owns property up on the hill top behind the cabin and they have an axe to grind. This property has been in his family for along time and abuts a state forest. They live out of state, have no winter access yet they hate the noise from snowmobiles. They want to close a legal road to the public. It is a critical road connecting a few towns that gets more use in sled season. Not on any published moto routes and never will be. Too hard.

I’ve heard Vermont described as a state that is a national park and in some ways it’s accurate. Like a national park the environment and aesthetic are priorities; the guy in charge of road signs calls them “litter on a stick.” You will not find billboards in Vermont. Access to the woods is precious.

Vermont has the more dirt roads than paved. Vermont also has close to 1,700 miles of Class IV roads which are unmaintained legal rights of way open to motorized traffic in the summer and limited to snowmobiles in the winter. Maintenance and post flood damage on these Class IV roads are done by local snowmobile clubs, to legally ride a snowmachine in Vermont you must be a member of a club that is part of the Vermont Association of Snow Travelers (VAST). The VAST network uses public (class IV) and private land to create a trail network that allows one to go from Southern Vermont to the Canadian Border. If you ride the Northeast Backcountry Discovery Route (NEBDR) there are a few places were you’ll be riding on a class IV that is also on the VAST network.

VAST trail sign. Not to be followed unless on a snowmobile

It is a big deal to get a class IV road to be “given up” by the town. It’s a process that requires a vote at an open town meeting and it is very rare that a landowner can succeed. In the case of my neighbor on the mountain he’s been suing the neighboring town regarding their classification of the road, putting it on the VAST network on so on. He picked it up again over the holidays with our town and tried to play games with scheduling, agenda items and the calendar to get a quick vote when nobody was paying attention. It failed because we do and the room was full of concerned citizens. The motion was tabled pending review.

As the review will involve researching maps, boundaries and landmarks from 1931 to present this is being done on horseback and GPS to disprove the landowners claims. We want this road, not only for our own enjoyment but in this case safety as well, when the floods came last summer for those with proper equipment this provided access days before the class III road was open.

Scenes like this play out across the country all the time. For the last 20 or so years I’ve been involved in doing all I can not only to protect our rights to ride but to preserve them as well. The reality is protection has to happen when preservation has failed, usually because of bad behavior.

In this case we’re lucky that the opposition doesn’t have any specific complaints or events with motorcyclists to sway votes, all he has is the law, a bunch of maps and questionable interpretations; we’re confident we will prevail. This is in contrast to what happened in southern Vermont a few weeks after the Backcountry Discovery Rides published the NEBDR when a few hundred feet of road near a park was closed to motor vehicles due to constant complaints from residents.

I support the American Motorcycle Association and am glad to serve on the Recreational Off Road Riding Committee. I firmly believe all riders benefit from the AMA and their efforts to represent us with Federal and State Governments. I’m not looking for a wave of appreciation; I do this because I enjoy it and believe that once in a while I might make a difference. What I am looking for is help with preservation of what we have.

By the time the AMA gets involved with a riders rights issue chances are preservation has failed. In the case of a HOA board it’s because a few riders just had to have straight pipes, be hooligans near cross walks and so on.

In the case of dual sport or adventure riders preservation takes much more conscious effort by the rider. Noise is noise but how fast is too fast on an unmarked dirt road? What does reckless riding look like to someone on a mountain bike or out for a walk? What is reckless riding on dirt? How about that lady on a horse? Here in Vermont with 20 million souls less than an 8hr ride away the chances of encountering all of the above on any given ride is quite high.

So… This is where we all come in.

Each and every time you ride your adventure bike, like it or not you’re an ambassador. The big bike, big lights, luggage and the fancy Klim suit attract eyeballs, it’s what they’re designed to do. I figure the average encounter folks have with us are very short, sometimes only seconds and rarely involve conversation. To this day I can tell you about when I was a kid in the backseat of the family wagon when a guy on an R100RS went by at pace. I thought about it yesterday when a I saw a guy going down I91 on an RT. At pace.

Positive impressions are quick, painless and can be rewarding. In the woods or the dirt roads around here this means slowing way (way!) down for pedestrians, especially those with dogs, slowing down for folks on bicycles (how about a cheer for the ones going uphill!) and this one is big, full stop and shutting off the motor for folks on horseback. Waves and smiles go a long way as does respecting gates.

It’s still quite possible to have a great day and let your inner hooligan out to play for a bit, it’s just very important to know where it’s good and where it’s not along with whatever your tolerance for risk is. My rule of thumb is once I see a house, mailbox, or person it’s time to roll off, chill and focus on my fun and theirs too.

We’re all in this together and we need to work with, not against, the rest of the public. The US population has increased by over 30% on my life-time. More people means more competition for resources and for us places to ride in the woods is a very precious resource.

No matter where you ride when you ride somewhere new or your favorite weekend destination why not ride in a way that a local might just invite to a cookout instead of thinking something not so friendly.

#letsridebikes.

The BMW F900 GS vs KTM Adventure R

March 16, 2024

Last week I rode my 2023 KTM Adventure R down to MAX BMW MOTORCYCLES flagship store in New Milford to check out the new BMW F900GS.

My love of the adventure motorcycle started in 2003 with the purchase of my first BMW GS, the following summer I went to Ouray, Colorado and up some of the passes in the San Juan Mountains. I was hooked.

That was when I was a young man of 41 years old. I’ve owned a string of GS Adventures along the way. My last was a 2019 GSA and I got frustrated with the wight so I sold it. I replaced it with a 21 GS which I love but for the more aggressive off road riding I seek it’s still a bit much, especially for a day alone.

I’ve been hard after a smaller lighter bike that would still have the legs and comfort to handle a long ride to the good dirt, in other words back roads from the East Coast to the Rockes, ride a BDR or similar and ride home. Taking the big roads off the list also encourages one to look small. I started with a Husky 501 all set up with a big tank, navigation and all that. Great for a day in Vermont but I figured out fast it would be tough to enjoy for two weeks on the road with that big transit.

When Yamaha introduced the T7 I was interested immediately and I was able to get one of the first sold. It was a very underwhelming bike and the suspension required a full and expensive replacement. Nice bike but it carries most of its weight way up high. Combined with being a very narrow bike down low when dropped in the woods it’s actually harder to pick up than a GS. That day was quite an eye opener as the only reason to switch down from the big GS is to have something easier to self rescue with. The best thing the T7 has going for it is the price, it’s a big step up from a KLR but still a long way from a KTM or BMW.

Sold the Yamaha. Next up the KTM 890.

For me going orange was a bold move. I have been gulping the Bravarian Kool Aid for a long time, so much so I spent a few years as General Manager of a BMW Motorcycle shop. There’s a certain comfort (and bias) that comes with this kind of connection to a marque but the new 890 from KTM looked stunning on paper. I ordered one of the first and booked a KTM 790 for an upcoming trip to Colombia with Ricardo of Epico Moto. I could drop 10,000 words on Epico and how wonderful the tours are, but not here. I liked Colombia with Ricardo so much I’m going back in 2025, if you’d like to join me reach out.

Let’s compare bikes!

	BMW F900GS	KTM 890 Adventure R
Weight *	482 lbs	456
Displacement	889cc	895cc
Horsepower	105	103
Tires F/R	90/90/21 -150/70/17	90/90/21 -150/70/18
Front brake	305mm disc 2 piston calipers	320mm disc 4 piston calipers
Rear Brake	265 mm single piston caliper	260mm disc 2 piston caliper
Fuel tank	3.8 gallons	5.3 gallons
Seat height	34.2	34.6

* BMW published wet, KTM dry. The weight of 3.8 gallons of fuel was added to the KTM.

A quick dive into the numbers reveals a few subtle yet big differences, none of which should come as a shock to riders familiar with both marques.

The KTM is lighter and all the differences in suspension, tire size and even fuel capacity all support the idea that KTM’s are essentially street legal dirt bikes and the BMW GS is essentially a street bike that does very well off road to a point, when the subtle differences that makes them so wonderful for a 500 day on pavement becomes not so subtle.

Riding impressions

I had very high hopes for the new F900GS. When Zac, from MAX BMW let me know they had arrived the forecast for the next day (in early March no less!) was perfect so I decided to ride a bike rather than take the cage. Back roads it’s about 70 miles.

I suppose because of my inherent BMW bias I never thought of the 890 as a bike I’d choose over my GS for a 70 mile paved back road ride but alas, my GS was on a truck to Las Vegas and I figured I bought the KTM to ride back roads to the good dirt so what the heck, I’ll ride Orange to a Blue dealer. Plus I if I liked the GS enough I know that they’d take the KTM and a vital organ as trade and I could ride home on my new GS. It can be dangerous to ride a trade to check out a new bike so I made sure I left the title behind.

At this point I have to say I have nothing against my 890, in fact I like it quite a bit. What I was a little frustrated with is what you get when you call a shop that also sells chainsaws and side by sides; it’s hit or miss on every contact which is quite a cold shower after 17 years of being a MAX guy. If the GS fit the bill I thought it might be nice to come home, so to speak.

With all this in mind I left my home for the shop. I don’t think I got 10 miles before I laughed and thought “that GS better be pretty special to get me to pay to switch.”

I arrived at the shop, took one look at the GS and said nope, it won’t work for me, but it will likely work very well for a whole lot of riders.

The biggest single difference between the KTM and BMW is the COG, aka the Center of Gravity. Most riders don’t even think of this unless they’ve been riding a boxer GS for a long time. These riders have been benefiting from a very low COG, the lower the COG the lighter the bike feels. If you’ve ever over loaded a top case or rear rack you know of what I speak, weight low is great, weight high, not so much.

Standing on the pegs is when the low COG becomes most noticeable (and beneficial) and when flicking the bike from side to side on tight, twisty pavement. Being narrow in the tank also helps when standing as well.

Which bike looks like it has a lower COG?

Like every BMW I’ve owned the fit and finish on the new GS is stunning and to my eye the fit and finish on the KTM is very close if not the same just different.

The F900 rides like a GS. It feels planted, turns in nicely and works as one would expect. It’s a fine middle weight GS with BMW’s expected emphasis on the S in GS which of course translated still means street and comparing specs will confirm this.

For anyone who rides the big boxer GS hard and is looking for the same kind of fun in a smaller lighter bike I fear you’ll disappointed in the 900. It’s narrow down low and wide up high. Without adding the weight of crash bars the fist part of the bike to make contact with the ground is the beautiful, multi colored plastics surrounding the fuel tank. I wanted to lay it on some grass to see what it would be like picking it up, my fear of scratching it overruled this idea.

The 890 AR on the other hand has an ingenious design that puts the fuel tank way down low while keeping the bike narrow up high and it holds almost 30% more fuel than the GS. In the real world that’s close to 75 miles more range. To get this from the GS you’ll need to carry 9 lbs of gas and its container on your rear rack. The motor is more snappy, power comes on quicker and thanks in part to being a lighter bike with lower COG it just feels much zestier than the GS. I don’t think this can be appreciated without riding both bikes, especially in the woods.

Both bikes benefit from modern electronics. If BMW has an edge here I have yet to find it. BMW does have an advantage here thanks to the auto group but this comes down more to the interface and fancy screen than how it all works on the road or tail. The clutchless shifting on the KTM is less intrusive, hoppy and such than the BMW.

Conclusions

As one might expect both the 890 and the 900 are fine bikes and for riders considering both the choice is going to be simple if you can define what it is you want from the bike.

Essentially KTM’s DNA is dirt bikes and winning races. They make dirt bikes that are good on the street, while BMW excels at making street bikes that are good in the dirt. Additionally the KTM is what i would call a very sharp knife that while it can be abused it needs more care and feeding to stay sharp. Let it get dull and that’s when problems start. KTM provides the information you need to do as much as the necessary maintenance you are comfortable taking on yourself.

The GS on the other hand is a tad more “civilized,” from tire sizes to a much more cushy seat the GS is built for the rider that is looking for a good all around bike that does great on dirt roads, good enough on jeep trails while becoming a handful on anything more aggressive. I think it will be interesting to see how the 900 does in the market as the new 1300 GS boxer is a whole lot more bike, will likely have a lower COG, be easier to pick up and only weighs 41 pounds more.

I enjoyed my ride on the 900 but for what I bought a smaller bike the experience reinforced my thought that the 890 is the unicorn I have been looking for.

Now if I could just convince Max to open a KTM shop.

The Muddy Minuteman

January 26, 2022

In 2004 I started hosting a 24 hour Iron Butt Style rally in New England. It was called the Minuteman 1000 and ran for 14 years.

After some discussion with friends old and new I’ve decided to bring back the Minuteman with a dirty twist.

The Muddy Minuteman will be three events in one.

First is a 33 hour scavenger hunt throughout New England with most of the bonus locations on dirt with some being on class IV + roads, jeep trails and single track. There will be a 9 hour rest bonus where riders can collect extra points for setting up camp and making their own dinner. Riders can take the rest bonus at any location, including the rally site.
This will start at 06:00 Friday August 12 and finish at 15:00 on Saturday August 13.

The second event is a 10 hour version of the same and will start at 06:00 on Saturday August 13.

The third option is to come hang out in Colebrook and ride some of the provided .GPX files.

Dinner will be served Thursday, Friday and Saturday night, breakfast Friday and Saturday, grab n go on Sunday.

The Rally will be based from Camp Bobriwka in Colebrook, Ct. Camp Bobriwka is a wonderful 300 acre spot with a rustic dining hall, bunk houses, pond side camping, a modern bathhouse and more. It’s a great place to basecamp for a ride or post up for a relaxing weekend. There are some luxurious tiny houses available to rent.

The Muddy Minuteman (MM) will be an scavenger hunt rally with no set route. Riders will be presented with a .GPX file with a wide variety of locations with varying point values. The value of each bonus will be based on its distance from the start, the difficulty of the terrain to reach it and the difficulty to accomplish whatever task is required in the rallybook The tasks can range from reading a marker to answer a question, taking a photo, or going on a short but perhaps steep hike to do one or both of the former.

The MM is designed for capable riders of large displacement bikes such as the BMW R1250 GS, Honda Africa Twin, KTM 1290, etc. The lower end would be defined by the Yamaha Super Tenere. There will be a separate class for smaller bikes and big singles.

There will be some mandatory requirements for both rider and machine. The bike will be inspected. GPS will be mandatory as will a tracker that can send data to SPOTWALLA and send / receive messages from rally central. A camera or smartphone that will geotag photos to a memory card is also required.

The point of the event is to have fun. Good clean fun. There will be a lot of rules and details to follow for the type A, competitive rider. Doing so well will result in a great ride with what for you may be some challenges a little outside your comfort zone (remember this when you think of riding alone). There will be trophies for the top riders and swag for all. At least a sticker.

I also know how painful it can be to put down a huge effort to get somewhere and get zero points because the camera didn’t work, the marker was gone or I put A instead of An in my answer. Point is we’re going to put the emphasis on the ride so as long as your tracking device works if you reach it, you bag it while the folks that got it right get the big points. There will be a minimum score required to be considered a finisher.

The 10hr rally will have more transits on pavement. I’m hopeful that it will have a good number of bonuses that are closer to camp yet not at all big bike friendly. Rather than have different books for two classes it can be leveled by having the GS rider go further.

Finally for those who love to watch, chill and go for their own kind of ride this is your spot. A big reason for this ride is to support the Camp. It’s an amazing spot. There’s a wonderful dining hall and some adjacent flat field for tents, a big fire pit, places for RV’s travel trailers and car campers. There are a few bunk rooms too. It’s near a bunch of great riding. You could also wear yourself out riding a smaller bike on property. Chef Don Stover and his crew will be providing meals.

This is planned for August 11-14. If you’re from out of town come on up for the Muddy Minuteman and stick around for Dirt Daze the following weekend.

A tale of two rallies

August 30, 2021

I love to rally. I love motorcycles and the folks that ride them and the best place to find a lot of both is at a motorcycle rally. I attended my first organized event just about 25 years ago and I was immediately hooked.

Since then I have hosted or co-chaired over 100 events including working with Michael Friedle and Josh Asher to put on the largest gathering of BMW motorcycle enthusiasts ever held in North America along with 14 years as Rallymaster for the Minuteman 1000, a 24hr endurance rally held in New England.

Working with the GS Giants I was looking forward to putting on a rally we called Rock Lobster. Scheduled for August of 2020, Covid postponed it to 2021, then were had to cancel when it became clear due to forces outside of our control that we were not going to be able to provide what we advertised.

Thankfully our good friends at the BMW Riders Association invited us to come participate as “junior partners” in their annual Rally.

Held in Waynesville North Carolina we tagged the RA’s Game of Roads Rally as the Game of Trails. Giants being Giants resulted in many members coming together to run some big bike trials, field events and provide the fun and comradery the GS Giants are known for.

From the GS Giants website:

The GS Giants got their start in a western Pennsylvania forest, in 2011, where a bunch of riders who didn’t know each other rode in and became lifelong friends.
Since then, thanks to the efforts of hundreds of volunteers, the club has grown into the international force that it is today. Over 15,000 people around the world, collectively in social media platforms and our website, form one of the largest Adventure Motorcycle Communities.
From experienced veterans to newbs, on any type of adventure motorcycle, you are welcome here.

One early and very popular event was the Gypsy Tours. These were ride ins to events where the Giants built big bike trials tracks. The GS Giants tracks have become a staple of GS Giants events starting with the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America’s annual rallies to the Giants own Go Big annual rally, The BMW RA Rally, Ribfest and a host of other regional events.

With the RA Rally scheduled I decided to host a Gypsy tour of sorts or what I like to call a Rolling Rally. A Rolling rally is nothing more than a few suggested routes to appropriately spaced campgrounds along the way to a common destination, in this case the RA Rally.
I did my first Roller to the BMW MOA Rally in Johnson City, TN. Called the Big Johnson Tour we enjoyed twisty pavement and catered meals at established campgrounds. For this trip we had the benefit of the Mid-Atlantic Back Road Discovery Route (MABDR). This is a very scenic mostly dirt route that runs from PA to Damascus, VA.

Our tour started with a wonderful BBQ dinner served by Tracy Shannon Novacich. One of the founders of the GS Giants, Tracy put out a wonderful spread even though she was unable to join us on the ride. She did spare husband Matt who laid out a wicked fun ride to our first night destination; the Little Orleans Campground in Little Orleands, MD. It was a hot day and we appreciated that our first night on the road was at an improved campground as we all enjoyed some time in the pool, followed by dinner under a pavilion.

Day two and the weather is perfect. We started early and enjoyed close to 250 miles of back roads to our next destination, the Peaceful River Campground.

*Magenta line is main route featuring BDR, Green is paved and fast*
Main route distance: 247. Paved 166
Routes are designed so riders can “mix n match” depending on conditions, their mood and distance to destination. Never be a slave to a .GPX file.

The Peaceful River Campground is a hidden Gem along the MABDR. It’s more of a long term spot for trailer owners with some nice grassy spots along the river than a daily campground. This means it’s ideal for a mid-week stop as it’s very quiet. I don’t have the courage to try it (or the MABDR) on a weekend.

After another hot day a soak in the river was wonderful.

Day three was to be our most ambitious day of the tour. While there are plenty of places to camp along the MABDR for a tour one needs campgrounds that can accommodate a group and take reservations while being flexible in the total number of campers. In some places such as Little Orleans it’s easy as they have group camping while in a National Forest Service Campground that takes reservations the rules regarding number of tents and such are enforced.

Our destination for the day was the Little Oak Campground in The Cherokee National forest. After finishing the MABDR our route continued south on twisty pavement before diving into the forest. By design each night, after riding all day we would arrive to a campground that was a little more remote with a little less services than the previous location. Where on Monday we had all the amenities including a camp store by Wednesday it was forest and pit toilets. We also never had the same amount of campers each night, riders were encouraged to participate at their convenience and pleasure with the campground fees split equally.

At 282 with the majority on dirt it was an ambitious day. Again, riders we encouraged to use the route as a guide, not gospel. All riders were present and accounted for by dinner time.

Food each night was a freeze dried meal. I fondly remember stopping mid-afternoon for some fresh meat and veggies, perhaps some rice too. A few of us would get out our gear and cook up a meal to share with the group. Now we boil water, put in a pouch for a bit and presto a nice hot meal with close to zero clean up. Among the many benefits are it’s easier to be bear aware when your dirty dish is a foil pouch. The reduction in weight from the food itself to the cooking gear necessary to prepare it is welcome.

Thursday morning I was up before dawn. We posted up about 135 miles from the rally with a route that was twisty and paved. I drove my sprinter with GS Giant gear down the week prior and it was time to get set up. I left just before sunrise and was at the rally by late morning.

Selling the 1250

October 19, 2020

As someone afflicted with Vehicular ADD I’ve bought and sold more cars and motorcycles than I remember. Many I regret selling, others were let go at fire sale prices. This is a bike I’ll miss however some wonderful life changes encourage the sale of this bike. It’s a goer, that’s for sure.

I purchased this bike in January of 2019. BMW had just updated the Boxer motor with shift cam technology which produces more power. BMW was also touting improvements to the electronics, specifically the ride modes and ABS.

I visited the store I opened and served as the GM (Max BMW Motorcycles of South Windsor) for a few years and they had one of the first released on the floor. I was taken by the colors and I asked when they might have a demo. Steve in sales smiled and told me I was looking at the Demo. Being December I didn’t have enough gear with me so I booked an appointment for the next day.

My ride was fantastic. All the gripes I had with the original water cooled 1200’s were addressed. I wasn’t sure how I’d bond with the TFT screen but the motor, transmission and everything about riding the bike was so wonderful I tossed my concerns aside and bought one they had in stock that afternoon.

I have since completely bonded with the TFT screen.

I rode it 200 or so miles right away, then put it on a truck to Las Vegas. When I arrived my first afternoon was spent doing a 250 mile loop as BMW wants to see at least 400 miles on the bike before the first service. The next morning I took it into the local BMW dealer for the first service which is an oil change, check for updates and not much more.

After this I was off; down to Baja and back to Las Vegas a few weeks later to ship the bike home. That was 22 months ago and I haven’t stopped. I rode it back to California last fall, did one long weekend out west before the virus and then rode it back (link) this spring. Without even realizing it or trying I put just over 27,000 miles on this bike in the 22 months I’ve owned it. It’s a fantastic motorcycle. It’s the easiest bike to ride I’ve ever had. The twitch of the first generation fly by wire throttle is gone; the suspension is fantastic and the ride modes along with the ability to switch on the fly at any speed is wonderful. I’ve always been a high mileage rider and this is the first bike I’ve owned where I look at the odometer and wonder “how did that happen.” Even on the stock seat if I had to guess I would have said 10k, it’s that easy.

One thing I enjoy doing with my bikes is setting them up for how I will use them. I’ve built bikes for endurance rallies such as the Iron Butt Rally as well as extended backcountry trips.

With this bike I had no intentions of boldly taking it places no GS should go. I’ve done that and have the x-rays to show for it. Having said this the BDR’s and other published routes are perfect for this bike and the proper parts can make these rides safer, easier and more fun. Plus it’s fun to farkle.

First and foremost is lighting. While I have reduced the amount of riding I do at night when I do having wicked bright lights is a must. Clearwater leads the way in auxiliary lighting in both quality and price. This bike has a set of their Erica lights. With their can-bus controller these lights are turned on or off by pressing and holding the turn signal cancel switch. They are set to half power with the low beam and full power with the high; they also flash when the horn is activated. On the back I have Clearwater’s Billie brake light.

Clearwater Ericas. Yellow lens is removable cover

In my opinion it would be foolish to venture on a BDR route without taking a look at the bike, identifying the most vulnerable areas and adding some protection or at least having a plan if your sidestand switch takes a rock on the ride. If you watch the NorthEast Back Road Discover movie you’ll see a rider have a minor mishap that resulted in a hole in the valve cover. Had she not been with a group with mad JB weld skills she’d still be there.

This bike has some Touratech parts such as the sidestand switch protector, Headlight screen and fog light screens along with one or two others I’ll leave it to you to find in the photos. On a lark along with the knowledge of what front end parts cost I purchased and installed TT’s Bull Bar XL.

It also has the engine guards from Richochet. Had that NEBDR rider had these her minor mishap would have been a non-event.

Ricochet Engine protection. NB the piece from the backend of the crashbar to the frame. That is the Wunderlich engine guard extension.

I have also installed the Wunderlich ADV Engine Guard Extension. In my opinion this is a must have item as a minor drop can push the engine bars into the cylinder head. Not a trip ending event but on top of being a cosmetic issue a valve check will be difficult in the future. Also from Wunderlich is their screen reinforcement set. In their effort to save weight the engineers at BMW decided that a tremendous amount of movement of the windscreen is acceptable. This revolves this and makes time at highway speeds much more tolerable, if not even enjoyable.

On the bottom is an Alt Rider Bash plate and to protect the radiators a set of Tourtech protectors have been fitted.

I’ve also installed a pig tail (SAE) connector directly to the battery for direct charging and a coax connector for heated gear. Stock BMW Aluminum panniers in black are included as is a second key fob.

Most of my riding has been on pavement. This generation of GS is an amazing bike on the road which is how I wound up with so many miles in such a short amount of time. Yes the bike has been off road, first in Baja and a bunch here in New England, however I have avoided the nasty single tracks, rock gardens and mudholes; I’ve still got my 1200 for such shenanigans.

Yeah, I went to Deals Gap.

I expect the fist question I’ll get is “why are you selling?” and of course there are many answers. First if you don’t know me I am a “youthful” guy who is approaching sixty. Like the odometer on this bike I look at this and wonder how the hell did that happen, however for the bike it’s no shock. After 30 years of BMW ownership, a bunch of Iron Butt Rallies and more cross country trips than I can remember my riding is becoming much more local and much more woods orientated. I have smaller bikes I am riding more and my big cross country trips or Iron Butt Rally days are over. The simple truth is if I was 10 years younger I’d be putting another 50k on this bike in the next 36 months.

For service I am and always have been very particular about who works on my bikes. Other than the first service every service on this bike has been performed not only by the same dealer, but by the same technician. It has never been in for anything other than scheduled maintenance and to get the Clearwater lights wired up.

The bike will be delivered with the 24k service completed and the buyers choice of tires; either the TKC 80’s currently mounted or a very lightly used set of Anakee Adventures. Bike is located in CT, approximately 10 miles from Bradley Airport (BDL). Delivery via enclosed Sprinter van is available at an additional cost, seller’s shipper will be accommodated. Mosko gear in photos not included.

The price for the bike with everything shown is $17,500 fob South Windsor, Ct. with a 4 year unlimited mileage aftermarket warranty. Will not separate.

Gallery of photos

Contact Me.

Corona Run: Epilogue, Advice and Thoughts

May 9, 2020

I rolled in the driveway a few hours later than I expected but still early enough for dinner and into a form of self-quarantine.

It was quite a trip. The week before I left my riding buddy Drew Hoffman passed away from complications related to Covid-19. I was taking the Wuhan Virus seriously and the death of a friend made it all the more so.

I had been taking the virus and the recommendations from the CDC seriously from the start and doing my part to contain the spread. I also work in an essential industry (as determined by the Governor) which is real estate. I had a property under contract and inspections were completed the weekend before I left with the closing for the end of May. If I waited I would be coming back in June which would be prime time in what will be an even shorter season in New England.

I always keep hand sanitizer on my bike, part of riding a motorcycle is being ready for the occasional road side repair so I carry some nitrile gloves in my tool kit and purell in the tankbag.

According to the CDC the best defense against the virus is to wash your hands frequently, don’t touch your face, cover your mouth when you cough and maintain physical distance. Most of these are easy to follow but America did gasp when in one of the press conferences to announce this the speaker licked her fingers to separate the pages of her speech.

I came up with my own policies.
First I love riding with my visor up which also means that I get facial itches and such. With this in mind I decided I would never touch anything off the bike with my gloves on. I would remove them to get gas and wipe my hands with the Purell before putting them on. I also had a mask which I would use when I took my helmet off. My trips into a gas station were limited to the restroom and the purchase of water if necessary. I was filling my water bladder every morning at the hotel in an effort to reduce counter encounters.

In the hotels I would put my gear on the bell cart which would stay in the room with me overnight. I’d use the corner of the key for the elevator buttons and wash my hands immediately upon entering the room. Dinner would be delivered to my door and I never left my room.

Food was what I expected. Every decent mom n pop place I saw was closed, some were offering take out but that was the exception. McDonalds and the chains were all open for drive through only, no entry, no bathroom. I bought a big bag of jerky and some granola bars for emergency rations.

Dinner was easy, phone in the order and wait an hour or so.

Should I go for a ride?

This is a tough question.

It was suggested that given the opportunity I should “enjoy” Colorado. I was told by a friend that if it was him, he’d spend a few days riding the west.

I couldn’t do that.

When I decided to do this ride the only reason was I had a bike in California I want in Connecticut this summer and this was the window of time to get it done. I also wanted to see America in shutdown. I looked at this ride as a once in a lifetime opportunity to take a look at history first hand. I wasn’t looking for or considering it would be “fun.” I was worried about getting arrested for violating some “executive order.”

I had read the ongoing debate about weather motorcyclists should even be riding locally because of the perceived risk to first responders, emergency rooms and such. My answer to that is if you decide to ride based on the perceived availability of emergency medical services perhaps you shouldn’t be riding at all. My Emergency Room experience Monday prior indicated this was not the issue folks were making it out to be and a visit to an ER in Poplar Bluff, MO for an ear issue confirmed it. In the age of Covid the folks that treat the ER like their primary care physician are staying home. It’s amazing how relaxed an Emergency Room is when they’re only treating Emergencies.

When I go for a big ride the highlights are the people I meet and the places I visit. I love going to small towns and spending my money on food, accommodations and souvenirs with the locals.

None of that took place on this ride and will not until the small businesses are allowed to re-open. The shock to the over 33,000,000 Americans forced into unemployment is real especially in the small towns. There’s nowhere for me to spend any money other than the Taco Bell, the Walmart or the Dollar General so other than providing the entertainment of being the alien riding by there’s nothing my presence can offer.

This ride was unique and I will remember it and be ready to talk about it for the rest of my life. From a selfish point of view it was fantastic. No traffic, cheapest gas in 15 years, discounted hotel rooms and local restaurants fighting to bring me their best meal. If not for the death of my friend Drew, the 60,000 others and the 33,000,000 recently unemployed it was a great trip.

My ride had a purpose, as slim as it was. Without this I would have been just spinning my wheels for no good reason other than me, myself and I and for me that’s not a good enough. I expect this will be my big ride of 2020.

The final numbers:
Distance: 3,944 Miles
Elapsed Time: 7 days 13:41:20 Moving Time 2 days 21:28:46 (69:28:21)
Average speed (moving) 56.8 mph
Elevation -30 to 10,520

Corona Run: Homebound

May 8, 2020

Monday May 4, 2020
Day 8

Winchester, Virginia is a bookmark for my rides. If I am going south or west on the southern route Winchester is a good stop for the first night on the way out and the last night on the way back, if the route used is all slab and the big roads. This is especially true if I’m in the Sprinter as there’s a Walmart parking lot that’s good for a nap.

Generally speaking getting in and out of New England is a pain in the ass. While the Hudson River makes a wonderful natural moat it also means crossings must be selected with care. The majority of the time the GPS will select a route over the George Washington Bridge, across the Brooklyn Queens Expressway and into New England. I grew up just over the line in Connecticut and I know better than to ever consider that route. It’s about 350 miles from home via the slab so today was my last day regardless of what route I select.

As an aside while struck in traffic on the GW Bridge transporting my grandparents to my brothers wedding in New Jersey my grandmother leaned forward and from the back seat said:

“Robert, I do hope you have the good sense to marry a woman from east of the Hudson.“

She was serious and if she lived long enough would be absolutely delighted that my wife hails form Hingham, Massachusetts and has roots that stretch back to the Mayflower whereas ours only go back to the “second boat.”

So the GW Bridge sucks and riding Manhattan would suck even more. Except perhaps during a pandemic. What better way to experience the Zombie Apocalypse than by riding through Manhattan? It was even suggested I take one of the tunnels and ride across the city to the FDR.

Being the type that immediately considers what could go wrong the thought of being anywhere near the center of the Virus in North America where it’s already the worst place to get a flat topped a pretty long list of reasons not to ride in Manhattan. Sorry to disappoint but there are no photos of my bike in an empty Times Square.

When I left the hotel in Winchester I thought I’d be able to wing it and put together a pretty good ride. I forgot how challenging Southern Pennsylvania can be. From the interstate it’s obvious that PA is the distribution center for the eastern seaboard. Along the highway every exit has a million square foot warehouse or one or two under construction; the Interstates in PA have been under construction since I got my license to drive. What I did not realize is that many of the towns along the secondary roads also have big warehouses and these roads are full of trucks with a posted speed of 45 or less.

It was a frustrating experience as I tried once again to get off the beaten path. It seemed every town had paved over a big chunk of town for the walmart and other big box stores while the farms in the middle were getting squeezed by housing developments. I was not having a great morning.

Once in a while I stumble over a place that seems interesting. I also tend to look at places like they were a bonus on a rally and this place looked good for both. Too bad it was a bit early for a hot dog.

As I headed Northeast I was getting close to the weather I’d been following across the country. This was the only day of the ride I used my heated shirt; the high temp was 62 degrees and as the day went on it decreased to the high 50’s and the clouds came out.

I wanted a hot lunch and I stopped at a pizza parlor somewhere in south central Pennsylvania. I ordered a steakbomb and sat at a table while he made it. The place was empty and quiet so I asked if I might be able to sit over in the corner. The owner said he could get in trouble, lose his license and all that and we agreed it would be a bad idea. I asked if I could take a chair out on the sidewalk (we were in a mini mall) and he was quite insistent that if he did we could all go to jail so I sat on the curb and ate my sandwich.

Pennsylvania started with the closings early and the message has been received loud and clear. This was the state where some of the large gas stations were pay at the pump only with the convenience store closed. This was also the state where mask use was most prevalent with people wearing mask in their cars and on their lawn tractors too. Even the DOT road crew and construction workers were wearing masks; this was the only state I saw this. As I traveled the irony of the CDC issuing instructions to wash your hands (reinforced on electronic billboards) yet every public bathroom is closed was not lost on me.

Once north of I78 rural Pennsylvania gets much more bike friendly. One of my favorite diversions is route 209 from the Delaware Water Gap up to Port Jervis. It sets up the ride into New England to be well north of Manhattan with Port Jervis located on I84 which runs east to Hartford.

I picked up 84 for a bit but after the ride I had I just didn’t want to end it on the slab or riding through a capital city. I explored a bit by selecting a less traveled bridge across the Hudson then onto familiar roads for the last bit home.

Homebound. 446 Miles in 11:00

Next: Epilogue, advice and thoughts

Corona Run: Back Road Discovery

May 8, 2020

Sunday May 3,2020
Day 7

I had a great night’s sleep and I awoke to another beautiful day. So far I had been able to ride in fantastic weather. The jog up to Big John’s was perfect as it kept me behind a cold front that was going across the country.

The weather behind a cold front is some of the best you can get. It’s clear and crisp and in deep summer can be a break in the humidity. Being May humidity was not an issue and I was enjoying some brilliant sunshine all week.

One of my thoughts for the east and final leg home was to incorporate some of the Mid-Atlantic Back Road Discovery Route into my ride. The folks at Back Road Discovery routes have put together off pavement routes that run through a bunch of states. They started out west and I have enjoyed some of their routes on AGALOS rides; I rode some of their Idaho route about 16 years ago. They have put together some great routes and they keep them updated, all by volunteers. They also have some educational programs (Ride Right) that are a great compliment to their routes. I am proud to be a lifetime supporter of the Back Road Discovery Routes.

From Ashville to New England one easy route is the Blue Ridge Parkway which is a great way to spend a relaxed day but with the random closing of sections I decided to avoid it. There are also some excellent roads to the west of I-81 which can be utilized for a pretty effecient non-slab route. The challenge of the MABDR is it would be pretty slow. While I had the green light from my wife to take as long as I wanted I wasn’t really in the mood to add an extra day or two to my ride.

I decided on a hybrid route to the west, using the BDR when it was going in the proper direction and avoiding some of the loops that would add time.

I also wanted to visit Paint Bank, Virginia and the General Store. Paint Bank is a wonderful spot on a wicked twisty road (VA 311). They have gas, a general store and a very nice restaurant in the back. The General Store holds some fond memories for my wife and I and it’s on the way. Plus to get there you have to ride twisty roads.

The MABDR would be considered the easiest of the bunch. Easy is relative and like all the routes (or any ride) one must pay attention and remain engaged. It’s easy to get going quite fast when the ride is considered “easy” but even on an easy route bad things can happen. I’ve enjoyed the MABDR before and the first time I noted that there was a bit of traffic. Being an easier route using established forest roads, the MABDR has plenty of opportunities to meet an oncoming car, jeep or truck so paying heed to the Ride Right campaign here can make a huge difference.

One thing I love about riding in the Northeast is any dirt road will be very different depending on the time of year. In the spring the dirt is soft, wet and anything in shade will be slick and soupy. In the summer everything firms up and the speed goes up too. Come fall the roads get blanketed with leaves which make obstacles harder to spot along with a slick base if they’re wet.

For this ride I was on Michelin Anakee tires which are a 50-50 tire (pavement / dirt) and not the least bit aggressive in the tread department. A great tire for August or a pavement cross country ride but not the first choice for wet dirt or mud. I kept this in mind as I set off and each time I jumped on a section of the BDR.

I had a ball in the woods. I love this kind of riding, the scenery is fantastic and it’s wonderful to go where few people venture and the ones that do have a purpose. I kept a very relaxing pace only to wish for knobby tires when I was in the shade, mud or wet.

Spring on the BDR. That trench behind the bike is a waterbar. Hitting that at speed would be very bad.

I continued north and took a slight jog to the east so I would be on the bestest, funest and twistiest part of 311, the road to Paint Bank. This road holds a special signifigance as a number of years ago some friends formed a club, chartered it with the big BMW National club and our assigned number was…….

311.

I motored on to Paint Bank and the General Store. The store was open but the restaurant was closed. I expected this yet I still arrived with room in my tummy for a good lunch. Thankfully they had a few pre-made sandwiches and a place to sit.

From Paint Bank I had a bunch of choices. I could go Northwest to Cumberland, Maryland or Northeast to Winchester, VA. Both had Hampton Inns and I was hoping the experience in Ashville would not be repeated.
Winchester held more appeal is it was on the more direct line home but it would be a little more challenging to put together an enjoyable route.

I selected Winchester. The Hampton Inn was most accommodating and the local Chinese place delivered a nice dinner.

Ashville, North Carolina to Winchester, Virginia
495 Miles in 12:40

Next: Homebound

Corona Run. Carolina off my mind

May 8, 2020

Saturday, May 2, 2020
Day 6

It was my first night in a tent in a long time. I’ll admit it, I’ve gotten a little soft in my old age and I slept “good enough” to wake up feeling ready to ride. When I emerged from my tent and took a good look at Ribville I felt fantastic. Ribville has become a bit of a sanctuary for me and it was a huge treat to spend a quiet night there with Lee and a few of his close friends. I’m usually there in the fall and this spring morning was a wonderful contrast.

I was just over 1,000 miles from my house but here I had the feeling of being home. I’ve done quite a bit of riding in the Southeast and I can have a great ride from Tennessee to Connecticut without a map.

My plan for the day was to head north. I wanted to check out Deals Gap and ride as much twisty pavement as possible. My ride was coming to a close; I knew from the start that the last day would be most if not all interstate so this was a day to make count as I only had a few days left.

I put the Gap in the GPS, added a few waypoints to make it somewhat interesting and set off. I had a nice ride to the Gap. I was wondering if it would be open; at some point in the shut down the Tennessee DOT put a barrier across 129 at the western end and my plan was to ride it west to east and then head north. As I got closer I started to see motorcycles heading away from the Gap. I’d been losing an hour of clock time crossing time zones and I was arriving a little later than I had planned.

The Gap was open and it was a bit of a circus. I have always avoided the Gap on weekends and here I was in the Gap not only on Saturday afternoon, but the first Saturday afternoon the Gap had been open since early March. Traffic wasn’t terrible but I was stuck by the parties on the pull-outs. Each one was full with a truck, trailer, EZ up and a few chairs as the occupants zipped around on whatever came out of the trailer. There were people in small groups and it did seem that most folks were intimate enough that distancing was not a concern.

I had a nice ride though the Gap, did the proper posing for the photographers and made my way to the east end, where the Motorcycle Resort is. I stopped on the hill to take it all in. There were a fair number of bikes; much less than the same weekend last year but enough to give anyone with a new aversion to crowds pause. I didn’t see the riders or anyone in tight groups so I assumed they were inside. I decided that I didn’t want the stress of distancing in a confined space and I really wasn’t in the mood for chit chat with strangers.

Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort, Saturday May 2, 2020

I left the Gap but not before the obligatory photo.

After the Gap and the decision not to visit the store I continued on my way, stopping at a deserted gas station up the road. I saw a couple also on BMW’s and we had a brief chat. They agreed the Gap was especially crazy and I was told “you should have been here last week.”

I wasn’t really sure of my route north. I was back in the east where roads had been closed and access to specific counties was by permit only with no transits allowed. I was not about to get into a conversation with a local cop about the constitution; I also knew that Graham County (home of the GAP) had some pretty heavy restrictions that were in the process of being relaxed. I had heard parts of the Blue Ridge Parkway were closed which was confirmed by Google Maps. All of the Cherokee Indian Reservation was closed as they have been hit very hard by the virus.

With these concerns tucked away I had a very nice ride. Toward the end of the day I still had a few hours of sunlight left and I wanted to add a “cherry on top” of a great day so I looked for some twisties on the GPS. A check of my phone indicated the Blue Ridge Parkway was open into Ashville so up I went.

There’s no cell service up on the BRP which I suppose is whey the road was not reported as closed. It was a very nice, very twisty ride up and down which made for a nice way to end the day.

True to form I had selected a Hampton Inn in Ashville for my destination. I was soon to learn that was a mistake.

I arrived at the Hampton and the first thing I noticed was a lot of signs on the door. Apparently leisure travel was illegal in North Carolina and before I could say a word the guy at the desk went into full panic and essentially told me to get out. I told him I was transiting the state on my way home and my profession is considered essential in my state of residence. He couldn’t care less and seemed delighted to inform me I was not going to be able to get a hotel room anywhere in South Carolina.

This was frustrating. Frustrating because it was another example of a fear based executive order with vague terms that are left up to the interpretation of a hotel desk clerk. In this case I’m on two wheels so by definition it must be leisure and I was not to be given the opportunity to suggest otherwise. It was also frustrating because it was right around sunset and if he was correct I was probably going to have to camp illegally. It’s also early enough in the season that it will be cold but I was ready for a night of cold camping.

I took a moment to collect myself and rode across the parking lot to the Fairfield Inn where they were happy to rent me a room. I was delighted to get a room while frustrated with the treatment next door. There is an old saying that living well is the best revenge. I ordered a wonderful steak dinner and thumbed my plastic fork in the general direction of the Hampton.

Centerville, Tennessee to Ashville, North Carolina. 465 miles in 12:46

Next: Back Road Discovery