The BMW F900 GS vs KTM Adventure R

March 16, 2024

Last week I rode my 2023 KTM Adventure R down to MAX BMW MOTORCYCLES flagship store in New Milford to check out the new BMW F900GS.

My love of the adventure motorcycle started in 2003 with the purchase of my first BMW GS, the following summer I went to Ouray, Colorado and up some of the passes in the San Juan Mountains. I was hooked.

That was when I was a young man of 41 years old. I’ve owned a string of GS Adventures along the way. My last was a 2019 GSA and I got frustrated with the wight so I sold it. I replaced it with a 21 GS which I love but for the more aggressive off road riding I seek it’s still a bit much, especially for a day alone.

I’ve been hard after a smaller lighter bike that would still have the legs and comfort to handle a long ride to the good dirt, in other words back roads from the East Coast to the Rockes, ride a BDR or similar and ride home. Taking the big roads off the list also encourages one to look small. I started with a Husky 501 all set up with a big tank, navigation and all that. Great for a day in Vermont but I figured out fast it would be tough to enjoy for two weeks on the road with that big transit.

When Yamaha introduced the T7 I was interested immediately and I was able to get one of the first sold. It was a very underwhelming bike and the suspension required a full and expensive replacement. Nice bike but it carries most of its weight way up high. Combined with being a very narrow bike down low when dropped in the woods it’s actually harder to pick up than a GS. That day was quite an eye opener as the only reason to switch down from the big GS is to have something easier to self rescue with. The best thing the T7 has going for it is the price, it’s a big step up from a KLR but still a long way from a KTM or BMW.

Sold the Yamaha. Next up the KTM 890.

For me going orange was a bold move. I have been gulping the Bravarian Kool Aid for a long time, so much so I spent a few years as General Manager of a BMW Motorcycle shop. There’s a certain comfort (and bias) that comes with this kind of connection to a marque but the new 890 from KTM looked stunning on paper. I ordered one of the first and booked a KTM 790 for an upcoming trip to Colombia with Ricardo of Epico Moto. I could drop 10,000 words on Epico and how wonderful the tours are, but not here. I liked Colombia with Ricardo so much I’m going back in 2025, if you’d like to join me reach out.

Let’s compare bikes!

Similar but very different
BMW F900GSKTM 890 Adventure R
Weight *482 lbs456
Displacement889cc895cc
Horsepower105103
Tires F/R90/90/21 -150/70/1790/90/21 -150/70/18
Front brake305mm disc 2 piston calipers320mm disc 4 piston calipers
Rear Brake265 mm single piston caliper260mm disc 2 piston caliper
Fuel tank3.8 gallons5.3 gallons
Seat height34.234.6
* BMW published wet, KTM dry. The weight of 3.8 gallons of fuel was added to the KTM.

A quick dive into the numbers reveals a few subtle yet big differences, none of which should come as a shock to riders familiar with both marques.

The KTM is lighter and all the differences in suspension, tire size and even fuel capacity all support the idea that KTM’s are essentially street legal dirt bikes and the BMW GS is essentially a street bike that does very well off road to a point, when the subtle differences that makes them so wonderful for a 500 day on pavement becomes not so subtle.

Riding impressions

I had very high hopes for the new F900GS. When Zac, from MAX BMW let me know they had arrived the forecast for the next day (in early March no less!) was perfect so I decided to ride a bike rather than take the cage. Back roads it’s about 70 miles.

I suppose because of my inherent BMW bias I never thought of the 890 as a bike I’d choose over my GS for a 70 mile paved back road ride but alas, my GS was on a truck to Las Vegas and I figured I bought the KTM to ride back roads to the good dirt so what the heck, I’ll ride Orange to a Blue dealer. Plus I if I liked the GS enough I know that they’d take the KTM and a vital organ as trade and I could ride home on my new GS. It can be dangerous to ride a trade to check out a new bike so I made sure I left the title behind.

At this point I have to say I have nothing against my 890, in fact I like it quite a bit. What I was a little frustrated with is what you get when you call a shop that also sells chainsaws and side by sides; it’s hit or miss on every contact which is quite a cold shower after 17 years of being a MAX guy. If the GS fit the bill I thought it might be nice to come home, so to speak.

With all this in mind I left my home for the shop. I don’t think I got 10 miles before I laughed and thought “that GS better be pretty special to get me to pay to switch.”

I arrived at the shop, took one look at the GS and said nope, it won’t work for me, but it will likely work very well for a whole lot of riders.

The biggest single difference between the KTM and BMW is the COG, aka the Center of Gravity. Most riders don’t even think of this unless they’ve been riding a boxer GS for a long time. These riders have been benefiting from a very low COG, the lower the COG the lighter the bike feels. If you’ve ever over loaded a top case or rear rack you know of what I speak, weight low is great, weight high, not so much.

Standing on the pegs is when the low COG becomes most noticeable (and beneficial) and when flicking the bike from side to side on tight, twisty pavement. Being narrow in the tank also helps when standing as well.

Which bike looks like it has a lower COG?

Like every BMW I’ve owned the fit and finish on the new GS is stunning and to my eye the fit and finish on the KTM is very close if not the same just different.

The F900 rides like a GS. It feels planted, turns in nicely and works as one would expect. It’s a fine middle weight GS with BMW’s expected emphasis on the S in GS which of course translated still means street and comparing specs will confirm this.

For anyone who rides the big boxer GS hard and is looking for the same kind of fun in a smaller lighter bike I fear you’ll disappointed in the 900. It’s narrow down low and wide up high. Without adding the weight of crash bars the fist part of the bike to make contact with the ground is the beautiful, multi colored plastics surrounding the fuel tank. I wanted to lay it on some grass to see what it would be like picking it up, my fear of scratching it overruled this idea.

The 890 AR on the other hand has an ingenious design that puts the fuel tank way down low while keeping the bike narrow up high and it holds almost 30% more fuel than the GS. In the real world that’s close to 75 miles more range. To get this from the GS you’ll need to carry 9 lbs of gas and its container on your rear rack. The motor is more snappy, power comes on quicker and thanks in part to being a lighter bike with lower COG it just feels much zestier than the GS. I don’t think this can be appreciated without riding both bikes, especially in the woods.

Both bikes benefit from modern electronics. If BMW has an edge here I have yet to find it. BMW does have an advantage here thanks to the auto group but this comes down more to the interface and fancy screen than how it all works on the road or tail. The clutchless shifting on the KTM is less intrusive, hoppy and such than the BMW.

Conclusions

As one might expect both the 890 and the 900 are fine bikes and for riders considering both the choice is going to be simple if you can define what it is you want from the bike.

Essentially KTM’s DNA is dirt bikes and winning races. They make dirt bikes that are good on the street, while BMW excels at making street bikes that are good in the dirt. Additionally the KTM is what i would call a very sharp knife that while it can be abused it needs more care and feeding to stay sharp. Let it get dull and that’s when problems start. KTM provides the information you need to do as much as the necessary maintenance you are comfortable taking on yourself.

The GS on the other hand is a tad more “civilized,” from tire sizes to a much more cushy seat the GS is built for the rider that is looking for a good all around bike that does great on dirt roads, good enough on jeep trails while becoming a handful on anything more aggressive. I think it will be interesting to see how the 900 does in the market as the new 1300 GS boxer is a whole lot more bike, will likely have a lower COG, be easier to pick up and only weighs 41 pounds more.

I enjoyed my ride on the 900 but for what I bought a smaller bike the experience reinforced my thought that the 890 is the unicorn I have been looking for.

Now if I could just convince Max to open a KTM shop.

The Muddy Minuteman

January 26, 2022

In 2004 I started hosting a 24 hour Iron Butt Style rally in New England. It was called the Minuteman 1000 and ran for 14 years.

After some discussion with friends old and new I’ve decided to bring back the Minuteman with a dirty twist.

The Muddy Minuteman will be three events in one.

First is a 33 hour scavenger hunt throughout New England with most of the bonus locations on dirt with some being on class IV + roads, jeep trails and single track. There will be a 9 hour rest bonus where riders can collect extra points for setting up camp and making their own dinner. Riders can take the rest bonus at any location, including the rally site.
This will start at 06:00 Friday August 12 and finish at 15:00 on Saturday August 13.

The second event is a 10 hour version of the same and will start at 06:00 on Saturday August 13.

The third option is to come hang out in Colebrook and ride some of the provided .GPX files.

Dinner will be served Thursday, Friday and Saturday night, breakfast Friday and Saturday, grab n go on Sunday.

The Rally will be based from Camp Bobriwka in Colebrook, Ct. Camp Bobriwka is a wonderful 300 acre spot with a rustic dining hall, bunk houses, pond side camping, a modern bathhouse and more. It’s a great place to basecamp for a ride or post up for a relaxing weekend. There are some luxurious tiny houses available to rent.

The Muddy Minuteman (MM) will be an scavenger hunt rally with no set route. Riders will be presented with a .GPX file with a wide variety of locations with varying point values. The value of each bonus will be based on its distance from the start, the difficulty of the terrain to reach it and the difficulty to accomplish whatever task is required in the rallybook The tasks can range from reading a marker to answer a question, taking a photo, or going on a short but perhaps steep hike to do one or both of the former.

The MM is designed for capable riders of large displacement bikes such as the BMW R1250 GS, Honda Africa Twin, KTM 1290, etc. The lower end would be defined by the Yamaha Super Tenere. There will be a separate class for smaller bikes and big singles.

There will be some mandatory requirements for both rider and machine. The bike will be inspected. GPS will be mandatory as will a tracker that can send data to SPOTWALLA and send / receive messages from rally central. A camera or smartphone that will geotag photos to a memory card is also required.

The point of the event is to have fun. Good clean fun. There will be a lot of rules and details to follow for the type A, competitive rider. Doing so well will result in a great ride with what for you may be some challenges a little outside your comfort zone (remember this when you think of riding alone). There will be trophies for the top riders and swag for all. At least a sticker.

I also know how painful it can be to put down a huge effort to get somewhere and get zero points because the camera didn’t work, the marker was gone or I put A instead of An in my answer. Point is we’re going to put the emphasis on the ride so as long as your tracking device works if you reach it, you bag it while the folks that got it right get the big points. There will be a minimum score required to be considered a finisher.

The 10hr rally will have more transits on pavement. I’m hopeful that it will have a good number of bonuses that are closer to camp yet not at all big bike friendly. Rather than have different books for two classes it can be leveled by having the GS rider go further.

Finally for those who love to watch, chill and go for their own kind of ride this is your spot. A big reason for this ride is to support the Camp. It’s an amazing spot. There’s a wonderful dining hall and some adjacent flat field for tents, a big fire pit, places for RV’s travel trailers and car campers. There are a few bunk rooms too. It’s near a bunch of great riding. You could also wear yourself out riding a smaller bike on property. Chef Don Stover and his crew will be providing meals.

This is planned for August 11-14. If you’re from out of town come on up for the Muddy Minuteman and stick around for Dirt Daze the following weekend.

A tale of two rallies

August 30, 2021

I love to rally. I love motorcycles and the folks that ride them and the best place to find a lot of both is at a motorcycle rally. I attended my first organized event just about 25 years ago and I was immediately hooked.

Since then I have hosted or co-chaired over 100 events including working with Michael Friedle and Josh Asher to put on the largest gathering of BMW motorcycle enthusiasts ever held in North America along with 14 years as Rallymaster for the Minuteman 1000, a 24hr endurance rally held in New England.

Working with the GS Giants I was looking forward to putting on a rally we called Rock Lobster. Scheduled for August of 2020, Covid postponed it to 2021, then were had to cancel when it became clear due to forces outside of our control that we were not going to be able to provide what we advertised.

Thankfully our good friends at the BMW Riders Association invited us to come participate as “junior partners” in their annual Rally.

Held in Waynesville North Carolina we tagged the RA’s Game of Roads Rally as the Game of Trails. Giants being Giants resulted in many members coming together to run some big bike trials, field events and provide the fun and comradery the GS Giants are known for.

From the GS Giants website:

The GS Giants got their start in a western Pennsylvania forest, in 2011, where a bunch of riders who didn’t know each other rode in and became lifelong friends.
Since then, thanks to the efforts of hundreds of volunteers, the club has grown into the international force that it is today. Over 15,000 people around the world, collectively in social media platforms and our website, form one of the largest Adventure Motorcycle Communities.
From experienced veterans to newbs, on any type of adventure motorcycle, you are welcome here.

One early and very popular event was the Gypsy Tours. These were ride ins to events where the Giants built big bike trials tracks. The GS Giants tracks have become a staple of GS Giants events starting with the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America’s annual rallies to the Giants own Go Big annual rally, The BMW RA Rally, Ribfest and a host of other regional events.

With the RA Rally scheduled I decided to host a Gypsy tour of sorts or what I like to call a Rolling Rally. A Rolling rally is nothing more than a few suggested routes to appropriately spaced campgrounds along the way to a common destination, in this case the RA Rally.
I did my first Roller to the BMW MOA Rally in Johnson City, TN. Called the Big Johnson Tour we enjoyed twisty pavement and catered meals at established campgrounds. For this trip we had the benefit of the Mid-Atlantic Back Road Discovery Route (MABDR). This is a very scenic mostly dirt route that runs from PA to Damascus, VA.

Our tour started with a wonderful BBQ dinner served by Tracy Shannon Novacich. One of the founders of the GS Giants, Tracy put out a wonderful spread even though she was unable to join us on the ride. She did spare husband Matt who laid out a wicked fun ride to our first night destination; the Little Orleans Campground in Little Orleands, MD. It was a hot day and we appreciated that our first night on the road was at an improved campground as we all enjoyed some time in the pool, followed by dinner under a pavilion.

Day two and the weather is perfect. We started early and enjoyed close to 250 miles of back roads to our next destination, the Peaceful River Campground.

Magenta line is main route featuring BDR, Green is paved and fast
Main route distance: 247. Paved 166
Routes are designed so riders can “mix n match” depending on conditions, their mood and distance to destination. Never be a slave to a .GPX file.

The Peaceful River Campground is a hidden Gem along the MABDR. It’s more of a long term spot for trailer owners with some nice grassy spots along the river than a daily campground. This means it’s ideal for a mid-week stop as it’s very quiet. I don’t have the courage to try it (or the MABDR) on a weekend.

After another hot day a soak in the river was wonderful.

Day three was to be our most ambitious day of the tour. While there are plenty of places to camp along the MABDR for a tour one needs campgrounds that can accommodate a group and take reservations while being flexible in the total number of campers. In some places such as Little Orleans it’s easy as they have group camping while in a National Forest Service Campground that takes reservations the rules regarding number of tents and such are enforced.

Our destination for the day was the Little Oak Campground in The Cherokee National forest. After finishing the MABDR our route continued south on twisty pavement before diving into the forest. By design each night, after riding all day we would arrive to a campground that was a little more remote with a little less services than the previous location. Where on Monday we had all the amenities including a camp store by Wednesday it was forest and pit toilets. We also never had the same amount of campers each night, riders were encouraged to participate at their convenience and pleasure with the campground fees split equally.

At 282 with the majority on dirt it was an ambitious day. Again, riders we encouraged to use the route as a guide, not gospel. All riders were present and accounted for by dinner time.

Food each night was a freeze dried meal. I fondly remember stopping mid-afternoon for some fresh meat and veggies, perhaps some rice too. A few of us would get out our gear and cook up a meal to share with the group. Now we boil water, put in a pouch for a bit and presto a nice hot meal with close to zero clean up. Among the many benefits are it’s easier to be bear aware when your dirty dish is a foil pouch. The reduction in weight from the food itself to the cooking gear necessary to prepare it is welcome.

Thursday morning I was up before dawn. We posted up about 135 miles from the rally with a route that was twisty and paved. I drove my sprinter with GS Giant gear down the week prior and it was time to get set up. I left just before sunrise and was at the rally by late morning.



Selling the 1250

October 19, 2020



As someone afflicted with Vehicular ADD I’ve bought and sold more cars and motorcycles than I remember. Many I regret selling, others were let go at fire sale prices. This is a bike I’ll miss however some wonderful life changes encourage the sale of this bike. It’s a goer, that’s for sure.

I purchased this bike in January of 2019. BMW had just updated the Boxer motor with shift cam technology which produces more power. BMW was also touting improvements to the electronics, specifically the ride modes and ABS.

I visited the store I opened and served as the GM (Max BMW Motorcycles of South Windsor) for a few years and they had one of the first released on the floor. I was taken by the colors and I asked when they might have a demo. Steve in sales smiled and told me I was looking at the Demo. Being December I didn’t have enough gear with me so I booked an appointment for the next day.

My ride was fantastic. All the gripes I had with the original water cooled 1200’s were addressed. I wasn’t sure how I’d bond with the TFT screen but the motor, transmission and everything about riding the bike was so wonderful I tossed my concerns aside and bought one they had in stock that afternoon.


I have since completely bonded with the TFT screen.

I rode it 200 or so miles right away, then put it on a truck to Las Vegas. When I arrived my first afternoon was spent doing a 250 mile loop as BMW wants to see at least 400 miles on the bike before the first service. The next morning I took it into the local BMW dealer for the first service which is an oil change, check for updates and not much more.

After this I was off; down to Baja and back to Las Vegas a few weeks later to ship the bike home. That was 22 months ago and I haven’t stopped. I rode it back to California last fall, did one long weekend out west before the virus and then rode it back (link) this spring. Without even realizing it or trying I put just over 27,000 miles on this bike in the 22 months I’ve owned it. It’s a fantastic motorcycle. It’s the easiest bike to ride I’ve ever had. The twitch of the first generation fly by wire throttle is gone; the suspension is fantastic and the ride modes along with the ability to switch on the fly at any speed is wonderful. I’ve always been a high mileage rider and this is the first bike I’ve owned where I look at the odometer and wonder “how did that happen.” Even on the stock seat if I had to guess I would have said 10k, it’s that easy.



One thing I enjoy doing with my bikes is setting them up for how I will use them. I’ve built bikes for endurance rallies such as the Iron Butt Rally as well as extended backcountry trips.

With this bike I had no intentions of boldly taking it places no GS should go. I’ve done that and have the x-rays to show for it. Having said this the BDR’s and other published routes are perfect for this bike and the proper parts can make these rides safer, easier and more fun. Plus it’s fun to farkle.

First and foremost is lighting. While I have reduced the amount of riding I do at night when I do having wicked bright lights is a must. Clearwater leads the way in auxiliary lighting in both quality and price. This bike has a set of their Erica lights. With their can-bus controller these lights are turned on or off by pressing and holding the turn signal cancel switch. They are set to half power with the low beam and full power with the high; they also flash when the horn is activated. On the back I have Clearwater’s Billie brake light.

Clearwater Ericas. Yellow lens is removable cover


In my opinion it would be foolish to venture on a BDR route without taking a look at the bike, identifying the most vulnerable areas and adding some protection or at least having a plan if your sidestand switch takes a rock on the ride. If you watch the NorthEast Back Road Discover movie you’ll see a rider have a minor mishap that resulted in a hole in the valve cover. Had she not been with a group with mad JB weld skills she’d still be there.

This bike has some Touratech parts such as the sidestand switch protector, Headlight screen and fog light screens along with one or two others I’ll leave it to you to find in the photos. On a lark along with the knowledge of what front end parts cost I purchased and installed TT’s Bull Bar XL.

It also has the engine guards from Richochet. Had that NEBDR rider had these her minor mishap would have been a non-event.

Ricochet Engine protection. NB the piece from the backend of the crashbar to the frame. That is the Wunderlich engine guard extension.

I have also installed the Wunderlich ADV Engine Guard Extension. In my opinion this is a must have item as a minor drop can push the engine bars into the cylinder head. Not a trip ending event but on top of being a cosmetic issue a valve check will be difficult in the future. Also from Wunderlich is their screen reinforcement set. In their effort to save weight the engineers at BMW decided that a tremendous amount of movement of the windscreen is acceptable. This revolves this and makes time at highway speeds much more tolerable, if not even enjoyable.

On the bottom is an Alt Rider Bash plate and to protect the radiators a set of Tourtech protectors have been fitted.



I’ve also installed a pig tail (SAE) connector directly to the battery for direct charging and a coax connector for heated gear. Stock BMW Aluminum panniers in black are included as is a second key fob.

Most of my riding has been on pavement. This generation of GS is an amazing bike on the road which is how I wound up with so many miles in such a short amount of time. Yes the bike has been off road, first in Baja and a bunch here in New England, however I have avoided the nasty single tracks, rock gardens and mudholes; I’ve still got my 1200 for such shenanigans.

Yeah, I went to Deals Gap.


I expect the fist question I’ll get is “why are you selling?” and of course there are many answers. First if you don’t know me I am a “youthful” guy who is approaching sixty. Like the odometer on this bike I look at this and wonder how the hell did that happen, however for the bike it’s no shock. After 30 years of BMW ownership, a bunch of Iron Butt Rallies and more cross country trips than I can remember my riding is becoming much more local and much more woods orientated. I have smaller bikes I am riding more and my big cross country trips or Iron Butt Rally days are over. The simple truth is if I was 10 years younger I’d be putting another 50k on this bike in the next 36 months.

For service I am and always have been very particular about who works on my bikes. Other than the first service every service on this bike has been performed not only by the same dealer, but by the same technician. It has never been in for anything other than scheduled maintenance and to get the Clearwater lights wired up.

The bike will be delivered with the 24k service completed and the buyers choice of tires; either the TKC 80’s currently mounted or a very lightly used set of Anakee Adventures. Bike is located in CT, approximately 10 miles from Bradley Airport (BDL). Delivery via enclosed Sprinter van is available at an additional cost, seller’s shipper will be accommodated. Mosko gear in photos not included.

The price for the bike with everything shown is $17,500 fob South Windsor, Ct. with a 4 year unlimited mileage aftermarket warranty. Will not separate.

Gallery of photos

Contact Me.



Corona Run: Epilogue, Advice and Thoughts

May 9, 2020

I rolled in the driveway a few hours later than I expected but still early enough for dinner and into a form of self-quarantine.

It was quite a trip. The week before I left my riding buddy Drew Hoffman passed away from complications related to Covid-19. I was taking the Wuhan Virus seriously and the death of a friend made it all the more so.

I had been taking the virus and the recommendations from the CDC seriously from the start and doing my part to contain the spread. I also work in an essential industry (as determined by the Governor) which is real estate. I had a property under contract and inspections were completed the weekend before I left with the closing for the end of May. If I waited I would be coming back in June which would be prime time in what will be an even shorter season in New England.

I always keep hand sanitizer on my bike, part of riding a motorcycle is being ready for the occasional road side repair so I carry some nitrile gloves in my tool kit and purell in the tankbag.

According to the CDC the best defense against the virus is to wash your hands frequently, don’t touch your face, cover your mouth when you cough and maintain physical distance. Most of these are easy to follow but America did gasp when in one of the press conferences to announce this the speaker licked her fingers to separate the pages of her speech.

I came up with my own policies.
First I love riding with my visor up which also means that I get facial itches and such. With this in mind I decided I would never touch anything off the bike with my gloves on. I would remove them to get gas and wipe my hands with the Purell before putting them on. I also had a mask which I would use when I took my helmet off. My trips into a gas station were limited to the restroom and the purchase of water if necessary. I was filling my water bladder every morning at the hotel in an effort to reduce counter encounters.

In the hotels I would put my gear on the bell cart which would stay in the room with me overnight. I’d use the corner of the key for the elevator buttons and wash my hands immediately upon entering the room. Dinner would be delivered to my door and I never left my room.

Food was what I expected. Every decent mom n pop place I saw was closed, some were offering take out but that was the exception. McDonalds and the chains were all open for drive through only, no entry, no bathroom. I bought a big bag of jerky and some granola bars for emergency rations.

Dinner was easy, phone in the order and wait an hour or so.

Should I go for a ride?

This is a tough question.

It was suggested that given the opportunity I should “enjoy” Colorado. I was told by a friend that if it was him, he’d spend a few days riding the west.

I couldn’t do that.

When I decided to do this ride the only reason was I had a bike in California I want in Connecticut this summer and this was the window of time to get it done. I also wanted to see America in shutdown. I looked at this ride as a once in a lifetime opportunity to take a look at history first hand. I wasn’t looking for or considering it would be “fun.” I was worried about getting arrested for violating some “executive order.”

I had read the ongoing debate about weather motorcyclists should even be riding locally because of the perceived risk to first responders, emergency rooms and such. My answer to that is if you decide to ride based on the perceived availability of emergency medical services perhaps you shouldn’t be riding at all. My Emergency Room experience Monday prior indicated this was not the issue folks were making it out to be and a visit to an ER in Poplar Bluff, MO for an ear issue confirmed it. In the age of Covid the folks that treat the ER like their primary care physician are staying home. It’s amazing how relaxed an Emergency Room is when they’re only treating Emergencies.

When I go for a big ride the highlights are the people I meet and the places I visit. I love going to small towns and spending my money on food, accommodations and souvenirs with the locals.

None of that took place on this ride and will not until the small businesses are allowed to re-open. The shock to the over 33,000,000 Americans forced into unemployment is real especially in the small towns. There’s nowhere for me to spend any money other than the Taco Bell, the Walmart or the Dollar General so other than providing the entertainment of being the alien riding by there’s nothing my presence can offer.

This ride was unique and I will remember it and be ready to talk about it for the rest of my life. From a selfish point of view it was fantastic. No traffic, cheapest gas in 15 years, discounted hotel rooms and local restaurants fighting to bring me their best meal. If not for the death of my friend Drew, the 60,000 others and the 33,000,000 recently unemployed it was a great trip.

My ride had a purpose, as slim as it was. Without this I would have been just spinning my wheels for no good reason other than me, myself and I and for me that’s not a good enough. I expect this will be my big ride of 2020.

The final numbers:
Distance: 3,944 Miles
Elapsed Time: 7 days 13:41:20 Moving Time 2 days 21:28:46 (69:28:21)
Average speed (moving) 56.8 mph
Elevation -30 to 10,520



Corona Run: Homebound

May 8, 2020

Monday May 4, 2020
Day 8

Winchester, Virginia is a bookmark for my rides. If I am going south or west on the southern route Winchester is a good stop for the first night on the way out and the last night on the way back, if the route used is all slab and the big roads. This is especially true if I’m in the Sprinter as there’s a Walmart parking lot that’s good for a nap.

Generally speaking getting in and out of New England is a pain in the ass. While the Hudson River makes a wonderful natural moat it also means crossings must be selected with care. The majority of the time the GPS will select a route over the George Washington Bridge, across the Brooklyn Queens Expressway and into New England. I grew up just over the line in Connecticut and I know better than to ever consider that route. It’s about 350 miles from home via the slab so today was my last day regardless of what route I select.

As an aside while struck in traffic on the GW Bridge transporting my grandparents to my brothers wedding in New Jersey my grandmother leaned forward and from the back seat said:

“Robert, I do hope you have the good sense to marry a woman from east of the Hudson.“

She was serious and if she lived long enough would be absolutely delighted that my wife hails form Hingham, Massachusetts and has roots that stretch back to the Mayflower whereas ours only go back to the “second boat.”

So the GW Bridge sucks and riding Manhattan would suck even more. Except perhaps during a pandemic. What better way to experience the Zombie Apocalypse than by riding through Manhattan? It was even suggested I take one of the tunnels and ride across the city to the FDR.

Being the type that immediately considers what could go wrong the thought of being anywhere near the center of the Virus in North America where it’s already the worst place to get a flat topped a pretty long list of reasons not to ride in Manhattan. Sorry to disappoint but there are no photos of my bike in an empty Times Square.

When I left the hotel in Winchester I thought I’d be able to wing it and put together a pretty good ride. I forgot how challenging Southern Pennsylvania can be. From the interstate it’s obvious that PA is the distribution center for the eastern seaboard. Along the highway every exit has a million square foot warehouse or one or two under construction; the Interstates in PA have been under construction since I got my license to drive. What I did not realize is that many of the towns along the secondary roads also have big warehouses and these roads are full of trucks with a posted speed of 45 or less.

It was a frustrating experience as I tried once again to get off the beaten path. It seemed every town had paved over a big chunk of town for the walmart and other big box stores while the farms in the middle were getting squeezed by housing developments. I was not having a great morning.



Once in a while I stumble over a place that seems interesting. I also tend to look at places like they were a bonus on a rally and this place looked good for both. Too bad it was a bit early for a hot dog.

As I headed Northeast I was getting close to the weather I’d been following across the country. This was the only day of the ride I used my heated shirt; the high temp was 62 degrees and as the day went on it decreased to the high 50’s and the clouds came out.

I wanted a hot lunch and I stopped at a pizza parlor somewhere in south central Pennsylvania. I ordered a steakbomb and sat at a table while he made it. The place was empty and quiet so I asked if I might be able to sit over in the corner. The owner said he could get in trouble, lose his license and all that and we agreed it would be a bad idea. I asked if I could take a chair out on the sidewalk (we were in a mini mall) and he was quite insistent that if he did we could all go to jail so I sat on the curb and ate my sandwich.

Pennsylvania started with the closings early and the message has been received loud and clear. This was the state where some of the large gas stations were pay at the pump only with the convenience store closed. This was also the state where mask use was most prevalent with people wearing mask in their cars and on their lawn tractors too. Even the DOT road crew and construction workers were wearing masks; this was the only state I saw this. As I traveled the irony of the CDC issuing instructions to wash your hands (reinforced on electronic billboards) yet every public bathroom is closed was not lost on me.

Once north of I78 rural Pennsylvania gets much more bike friendly. One of my favorite diversions is route 209 from the Delaware Water Gap up to Port Jervis. It sets up the ride into New England to be well north of Manhattan with Port Jervis located on I84 which runs east to Hartford.

I picked up 84 for a bit but after the ride I had I just didn’t want to end it on the slab or riding through a capital city. I explored a bit by selecting a less traveled bridge across the Hudson then onto familiar roads for the last bit home.

Homebound. 446 Miles in 11:00

Next: Epilogue, advice and thoughts

Corona Run: Back Road Discovery

May 8, 2020

Sunday May 3,2020
Day 7

I had a great night’s sleep and I awoke to another beautiful day. So far I had been able to ride in fantastic weather. The jog up to Big John’s was perfect as it kept me behind a cold front that was going across the country.

The weather behind a cold front is some of the best you can get. It’s clear and crisp and in deep summer can be a break in the humidity. Being May humidity was not an issue and I was enjoying some brilliant sunshine all week.

One of my thoughts for the east and final leg home was to incorporate some of the Mid-Atlantic Back Road Discovery Route into my ride. The folks at Back Road Discovery routes have put together off pavement routes that run through a bunch of states. They started out west and I have enjoyed some of their routes on AGALOS rides; I rode some of their Idaho route about 16 years ago. They have put together some great routes and they keep them updated, all by volunteers. They also have some educational programs (Ride Right) that are a great compliment to their routes. I am proud to be a lifetime supporter of the Back Road Discovery Routes.

From Ashville to New England one easy route is the Blue Ridge Parkway which is a great way to spend a relaxed day but with the random closing of sections I decided to avoid it. There are also some excellent roads to the west of I-81 which can be utilized for a pretty effecient non-slab route. The challenge of the MABDR is it would be pretty slow. While I had the green light from my wife to take as long as I wanted I wasn’t really in the mood to add an extra day or two to my ride.

I decided on a hybrid route to the west, using the BDR when it was going in the proper direction and avoiding some of the loops that would add time.

I also wanted to visit Paint Bank, Virginia and the General Store. Paint Bank is a wonderful spot on a wicked twisty road (VA 311). They have gas, a general store and a very nice restaurant in the back. The General Store holds some fond memories for my wife and I and it’s on the way. Plus to get there you have to ride twisty roads.

The MABDR would be considered the easiest of the bunch. Easy is relative and like all the routes (or any ride) one must pay attention and remain engaged. It’s easy to get going quite fast when the ride is considered “easy” but even on an easy route bad things can happen. I’ve enjoyed the MABDR before and the first time I noted that there was a bit of traffic. Being an easier route using established forest roads, the MABDR has plenty of opportunities to meet an oncoming car, jeep or truck so paying heed to the Ride Right campaign here can make a huge difference.

One thing I love about riding in the Northeast is any dirt road will be very different depending on the time of year. In the spring the dirt is soft, wet and anything in shade will be slick and soupy. In the summer everything firms up and the speed goes up too. Come fall the roads get blanketed with leaves which make obstacles harder to spot along with a slick base if they’re wet.

For this ride I was on Michelin Anakee tires which are a 50-50 tire (pavement / dirt) and not the least bit aggressive in the tread department. A great tire for August or a pavement cross country ride but not the first choice for wet dirt or mud. I kept this in mind as I set off and each time I jumped on a section of the BDR.

I had a ball in the woods. I love this kind of riding, the scenery is fantastic and it’s wonderful to go where few people venture and the ones that do have a purpose. I kept a very relaxing pace only to wish for knobby tires when I was in the shade, mud or wet.

Spring on the BDR. That trench behind the bike is a waterbar. Hitting that at speed would be very bad.


I continued north and took a slight jog to the east so I would be on the bestest, funest and twistiest part of 311, the road to Paint Bank. This road holds a special signifigance as a number of years ago some friends formed a club, chartered it with the big BMW National club and our assigned number was…….

311.

I motored on to Paint Bank and the General Store. The store was open but the restaurant was closed. I expected this yet I still arrived with room in my tummy for a good lunch. Thankfully they had a few pre-made sandwiches and a place to sit.

From Paint Bank I had a bunch of choices. I could go Northwest to Cumberland, Maryland or Northeast to Winchester, VA. Both had Hampton Inns and I was hoping the experience in Ashville would not be repeated.
Winchester held more appeal is it was on the more direct line home but it would be a little more challenging to put together an enjoyable route.

I selected Winchester. The Hampton Inn was most accommodating and the local Chinese place delivered a nice dinner.

Ashville, North Carolina to Winchester, Virginia
495 Miles in 12:40


Next: Homebound

Corona Run. Carolina off my mind

May 8, 2020

Saturday, May 2, 2020
Day 6

It was my first night in a tent in a long time. I’ll admit it, I’ve gotten a little soft in my old age and I slept “good enough” to wake up feeling ready to ride. When I emerged from my tent and took a good look at Ribville I felt fantastic. Ribville has become a bit of a sanctuary for me and it was a huge treat to spend a quiet night there with Lee and a few of his close friends. I’m usually there in the fall and this spring morning was a wonderful contrast.

I was just over 1,000 miles from my house but here I had the feeling of being home. I’ve done quite a bit of riding in the Southeast and I can have a great ride from Tennessee to Connecticut without a map.

My plan for the day was to head north. I wanted to check out Deals Gap and ride as much twisty pavement as possible. My ride was coming to a close; I knew from the start that the last day would be most if not all interstate so this was a day to make count as I only had a few days left.

I put the Gap in the GPS, added a few waypoints to make it somewhat interesting and set off. I had a nice ride to the Gap. I was wondering if it would be open; at some point in the shut down the Tennessee DOT put a barrier across 129 at the western end and my plan was to ride it west to east and then head north. As I got closer I started to see motorcycles heading away from the Gap. I’d been losing an hour of clock time crossing time zones and I was arriving a little later than I had planned.

The Gap was open and it was a bit of a circus. I have always avoided the Gap on weekends and here I was in the Gap not only on Saturday afternoon, but the first Saturday afternoon the Gap had been open since early March. Traffic wasn’t terrible but I was stuck by the parties on the pull-outs. Each one was full with a truck, trailer, EZ up and a few chairs as the occupants zipped around on whatever came out of the trailer. There were people in small groups and it did seem that most folks were intimate enough that distancing was not a concern.

I had a nice ride though the Gap, did the proper posing for the photographers and made my way to the east end, where the Motorcycle Resort is. I stopped on the hill to take it all in. There were a fair number of bikes; much less than the same weekend last year but enough to give anyone with a new aversion to crowds pause. I didn’t see the riders or anyone in tight groups so I assumed they were inside. I decided that I didn’t want the stress of distancing in a confined space and I really wasn’t in the mood for chit chat with strangers.

Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort, Saturday May 2, 2020


I left the Gap but not before the obligatory photo.



After the Gap and the decision not to visit the store I continued on my way, stopping at a deserted gas station up the road. I saw a couple also on BMW’s and we had a brief chat. They agreed the Gap was especially crazy and I was told “you should have been here last week.”

I wasn’t really sure of my route north. I was back in the east where roads had been closed and access to specific counties was by permit only with no transits allowed. I was not about to get into a conversation with a local cop about the constitution; I also knew that Graham County (home of the GAP) had some pretty heavy restrictions that were in the process of being relaxed. I had heard parts of the Blue Ridge Parkway were closed which was confirmed by Google Maps. All of the Cherokee Indian Reservation was closed as they have been hit very hard by the virus.



With these concerns tucked away I had a very nice ride. Toward the end of the day I still had a few hours of sunlight left and I wanted to add a “cherry on top” of a great day so I looked for some twisties on the GPS. A check of my phone indicated the Blue Ridge Parkway was open into Ashville so up I went.

There’s no cell service up on the BRP which I suppose is whey the road was not reported as closed. It was a very nice, very twisty ride up and down which made for a nice way to end the day.


True to form I had selected a Hampton Inn in Ashville for my destination. I was soon to learn that was a mistake.

I arrived at the Hampton and the first thing I noticed was a lot of signs on the door. Apparently leisure travel was illegal in North Carolina and before I could say a word the guy at the desk went into full panic and essentially told me to get out. I told him I was transiting the state on my way home and my profession is considered essential in my state of residence. He couldn’t care less and seemed delighted to inform me I was not going to be able to get a hotel room anywhere in South Carolina.



This was frustrating. Frustrating because it was another example of a fear based executive order with vague terms that are left up to the interpretation of a hotel desk clerk. In this case I’m on two wheels so by definition it must be leisure and I was not to be given the opportunity to suggest otherwise. It was also frustrating because it was right around sunset and if he was correct I was probably going to have to camp illegally. It’s also early enough in the season that it will be cold but I was ready for a night of cold camping.

I took a moment to collect myself and rode across the parking lot to the Fairfield Inn where they were happy to rent me a room. I was delighted to get a room while frustrated with the treatment next door. There is an old saying that living well is the best revenge. I ordered a wonderful steak dinner and thumbed my plastic fork in the general direction of the Hampton.



Centerville, Tennessee to Ashville, North Carolina. 465 miles in 12:46

Next: Back Road Discovery

Corona Run: Ribville

May 8, 2020

Friday May 1, 2020
Day 5.

I woke up early and refreshed thanks to another high thread count night in a Hampton Inn and another pretty good dinner with no contact delivery direct to my room.

The last two days had been somewhat big with each being over 600 miles. If you don’t fiddle-faddle around at gas stops you can cover quite a bit of ground while still avoiding interstates. This is especially true in the plains and works in the mountains when big distances can be saved by going over instead of around.

Today’s destination is a farm in Centerville, Tennessee owned by another High Quality Human. On top of fantastic weather, empty roads, cheap gas and hotels the unexpected icing on this cake were the visits I was able to have. We kept it simple, remained out doors and wagged elbows instead of the customary hugs, shakes and hi-fives. Usually when I visit Ribville it’s to help set up and participate in a rally, this time it was to be just a few of us and I was looking forward to it.

Poplar Bluff and Centerville are relatively close so I spent some time in the evening planning out a fun route. I decided to get as far off the beaten path as possible which resulted in a small ferry crossing.



This is essentially a barge with an articulating tug. If you look closely you’ll see the structure at the bow of the tug. The tug pivots around the pin. (video below)


When I arrived at the landing there was a very nice couple waiting for the ferry. They informed me they arrived just at the boat was leaving and it didn’t turn around for them. We spent almost an hour waiting for it to arrive. We loaded up, left the dock and I shot the video to follow on the rotation of the tug. Just as this was completed three motorcycles showed up to the landing. The captain backed the barge in enough for them to get on and off we went. I’m sure none of this was lost on the guy with the Florida plates. I let the Captain off the hook after he yelled at one of the riders to “get up here” i.e. join the Captain on the bridge.

I love looking at bikes like this and I have total respect for the rider that can keep it looking this good.


Below is the video of the tug switching sides.

Changing direction

One we got settled in the trip across the river was quick as we were going downstream. There was a fair bit of barge traffic on the river and they have the right of way.

Once off the boat I made good time toward Centerville. I was hungry and was absolutely delighted to find a Yoders open for business and serving made to order sandwiches. They had signs on the door instructing all that enter are to sanitize their hands and they had a table just inside for this purpose.

Yoder’s Country Store, doing it right.

From Yoder’s I had a lovely ride to Ribville. Before I could set up my tent I decided a nap was in order.

After a nap I got my tent set up and wandered down for some dinner, drinks and a good time with a few friends. As an added bonus my buddy Jim Bean came down from Nashville. The AGALOS influence was strong on this ride.

Poplar Bluff, Missouri to Centerville, Tennessee 234 Miles in 7:52. A most relaxing day.

Next: Carolina off my mind

Corona Run: Skunkwerks

May 7, 2020

Thursday, April 30. Fourth day of travel

I’m up early. I’m still in the plains and I have some miles to go before I get to the mountains. My goal for the day is to get east and stop for a visit with Brad Calbert of Skunkwerks Moto.

Brad is one of the most fascinating men I would like to know better. At first blush between the coveralls, the mid-west modesty and the dirty hands it’s easy to miss the intelligence, history and achievements contained within. After a career in technology including robotics and fabrication Brad and his partner John decided that work should be fun so they opened an independent motorcycle and fabrication shop. They must have really hated their previous gig.

I was looking forward to a visit, not just to see their new shop but to sit with Brad and discuss the world as it is today.

Being flat and boring the ride to Skunkwerks was quick and uneventful with nothing to see that I felt was worthy of a photo. I arrived at Skunkwerks, got a quick tour and then sat down for the chat that never happened.

When I ran the store for Max I learned early on that there would be days when we would serve as the diversion of the day to an older rider, if they still rode at all. Nice folks, they would come in to kick tires and chat with absolutely no plan on doing anything that would lead to an improvement on my or the shop’s bottom line. Most of the time it’s also a pleasant diversion except for those times when there’s much to be done which is pretty much all the time in a motorcycle shop except the fourth Wednesday in Febuary.

Sure enough about 30 seconds after Brad and I sat for a visit in comes Mr. “I’ve got all the time in the world” with his 20 year old BMW he bought used a few months ago that now has a slipping clutch after 1,000 miles. He has no plans to fix it even after Brad offers to do the job at 50% less than a BMW dealer would charge but he’s happy to go on for close to 20 minutes while Brad and I nod politely while telling Brad to “be on the lookout for something cheap.” I guess he hopes he can pass that K bike off on someone else who will miss a slipping clutch on a test ride.

Unfortunately for me Brad had a shop to run and I had to keep moving so rather than exchange ideas with someone I was eager to do this with I got to hear the trails and tribulations of an old K bike rider.

When I would get gas, order food, etc I’d start with a mask or leave my helmet on with chinbar down. It doesn’t protect me but it prevents spread. The approach to masks was very different from state to state. I never got a chance to discuss this with my host. In retrospect it’s probably a good thing Mr. KRS couldn’t see my exasperations.


Brad had suggested I check out great road on my way out of town. It was a bit of a detour but provided a wonderful if brief sample of the Mark Twain National Forest.

I finished up the day with a direct route to Poplar Bluff and another Hampton Inn. The memorable feature of Thursday night in Poplar Bluff was an excellent dinner delivered from the local Italian place. Tip in advance did not result in utensils. Like every other Hampton the breakfast bar and coffee service was closed. This meant I had to ask the person at the desk, etc. I am now adding a spork to my permanent tankbag kit. I had some good dinners that would have been much better with a solid fork.

The memorable feature of the day were some of the lines I saw in the small towns I passed through. They look longer than they are because everyone is practicing distancing but they all lead to the local government office, Salvation Army or other relief organization. I had avoided the news but that morning I looked and saw 33,000,000 Americans unemployed. That’s equal to the Great Depression of 1933 however we have four or five times the population if that’s any consolation. On a percentage basis unemployment passed 14% which I believe is the highest since it has been tracked. Ride through any small town and you can buy flowers at Walmart while the lady that owns the closed flower shop, her employee and her landlord are standing in line.

Not everyday on a big ride is going to be the best ever and this was such a day. Still a million times better than work and worthy of thanks at bedtime along with a prayer for our economic and physical health.

Woodward, Oklahoma to Poplar Bluff, Missouri
644 miles in 14:42

Next: Ribville